Last updated on April 22nd, 2024 at 05:23 pm
Backpacking the Rockwall trail is one of the best backcountry camping trips in the Rockies. Full of incredible views from waterfalls to glaciers but it’s a big trip and one not to be taken lightly. With long days on the trail often involving mountain passes and therefore a fair amount of elevation, when teamed with a pack, it’s a challenge which can push many people to the limit.
The great thing about backpacking the Rockwall Trail is it can be split into many nights. I’ve completed it twice now and done it over 3 and then 4 nights. I’d recommend four nights for anyone with the time as this allows you to enjoy each day and not feel rushed. When we did it over three nights, one day we hiked 20km and two mountain passes and rolled into camp way after dark, absolutely exhausted, having spent the last half of the day in a rushed panic with no time to stop and enjoy the trail.
The other great thing about backpacking the Rockwall trail is there are lots of trail options, so if you are short on time there are a number of options to reduce the length of the trip, the Rockwall itself is between the Helmet Falls campground and the Tumbling Creek campground both of which have trails leading to the same parking area so you can trim the trip right down or complete it as the full 55km thru hike.
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Which Way Should I Backpack The Rockwall Trail?
When deciding which was to tackle the Rockwall trail, I have always done it starting at the Paint Pots and ending at Floe Lake, this is because overall you lose elevation doing it this way, however when you are trekking up steep mountain sides to reach passes it doesn’t always feel like that and either way your daily elevation gain will be large.
It’s great to spend your last night at Floe Lake though which is the prettiest of all the campsites while backpacking the Rockwall Trail.
We have always done it in a group and shuttled one car to the Flow Lake parking area and driven back and parked the second car at the Paint Pot trailhead. I’ve also seen people drop a car at Floe Lake and then cycle back to the trail head.
When Should I Backpack The Rockwall Trail?
Due to the high elevation of some of the passes and the remote nature of the trail there can easily be snow into July on the trail. The perfect time to backpack the Rockwall trail would be July and August, however if you are willing to brave the seasonal variety of weather you might encounter, September is also a winner of a month. There are many larches along the trail, making it an incredible hike around the third week of September, however be prepared for cold nights and the possibility of heavy snow dumps! We did this trail in mid September and woke up to 5cm of heavy wet snow one morning, we could barely get our tent zippers undone!
Do I Need Reservations To Backpack The Rockwall Trail?
Yes all the campgrounds while backpacking the Rockwall Trail are within the Kootenay National Park and so all must be reserved. It’s easy to do online, it’s a popular trail so if you require specific dates, it’s best to try and book early! Reservations for summer 2024 open on January 29th at 8am MST.
Five Day Itinerary For Backpacking The Rockwall Trail
Day One : Paint Pots Trail Head to Helmet Falls Campground
Distance: 15km
Elevation: 300m gain, 50m loss
Day one of backpacking the Rockwall trail is fairly easy in terms of elevation change. The hike is mostly flat and through the forest, meaning some fast and easy kilometres, in mostly shade! Occasionally the trail opens up for views across the valley and allows for some beautiful pictures.
About halfway to Helmet Falls, you come across the Helmet/Ocre Junction campground, a pleasant campground right on the river. It’s peaceful and a beautiful spot to hang out and enjoy the wild beauty you are surrounded by. The perfect spot for a moment of packs off and snack time. There is also a toilet, so that’s a bonus for us ladies who don’t enjoy the trailside wee.
Across the bridge and through the campground and you find yourself back on the trail. It mostly follows the river from the campground. A short distance further and you get to see, what I assume in winter, would be some insane avalanche paths running down to the river below.
When you reach what can only be described as a rickety suspension bridge you know you are getting close to the first night stop while backpacking the Rockwall trail. Shortly after the bridge the trail opens up and Helmet Falls can be seen way off in the distance. Plunged back into the forest, eventually there is a fork in the trail and a sign for Helmet Falls campground.
The trail crosses a small creek and passes by the warden cabin before crossing the river and entering the Helmet Falls Campground. The campsite is fairly large with tent pads out in the open as well as hidden in the trees. Two outhouses and a small cooking area with bear lockers look out towards Helmet Falls.
Helmet Falls is a short hike past the campground but is also a spur off the trail on day two of backpacking the Rockwall Trail. So it can easily be done as a quick side trip first thing in the morning when leaving camp the next day.
Day Two: Helmet Falls Campground To Tumbling Creek Campground
Distance: 12km
Elevation: 640m gain, 500 loss
This is possibly my favourite day backpacking the Rockwall Trail, it is the day you get to hike along beside the Rockwall itself. It’s a hard day though with lots of elevation! The first time we did this trip we didn’t camp at Tumbling Creek but carried on to Numa Creek Campground, this made for a long day filled with stress and rushing, so on our second time backing the Rockwall Trail we decided to split this day up and it was a much nicer experience.
Day two starts with a steep climb up some switchbacks, there are some beautiful views to be had from about half way up, looking back at Helmet Falls. When you eventually crest out of the trees and the ground beneath your feet flattens, you get your first glimpse of the Rockwall! This is a great spot to stop, snack and hydrate and take in the beautiful views.
The trail heads down to the bottom of the valley, where you can marvel at the beautiful face of the Rockwall. Views are full on and I found travel slow as I looked around to take it all in. But before you know it, you are climbing again! Scrambling up moraine from the glacier you can see ahead. The trail crosses a small creek and then continues to gain elevation through the forest, showcasing views through the trees.
Eventually the trail opens up once again for incredible views looking back at the Rockwall and directly at a glacier. The mountains which surround the trail are huge here and it is a stunning stretch of the Rockwall trail.
Passing the trail junction for the Goodsirs and then another warden cabin, the trail starts to slowly descend, eventually turning into a mighty steep descent down into the Tumbling creek campground.
The Tumbling Creek Campground while backpacking the Rockwall Trail is a pleasant site, split into two main camping areas each with their own cooking area and washroom. Lots of sites here offer some kind of privacy or incredible views. There are also lots of good options for those wanting to put up a tarp. Thankfully this is something we did, since we woke up to over an inch of wet snow the following morning!
Day Three: Tumbling Creek To Numa Creek
Distance: 8km
Elevation: 340 gain, 700m loss
Day Three is one of the shorter days when backpacking the Rockwall Trail. Once again, almost straight from camp, the trail gains a lot of elevation. No better way to wake up and work off your breakfast! The trail gains elevation quickly after it crosses the river, the views are beautiful though, so it’s easy to take a relaxed pace!
The views from the top are stunning, glaciers and mountains meet the eye as the trail levels out. Eventually the trail shows views looking down the valley, a steep decline followed by a short level stretch through a meadow are what greets hikers. Then once again, the trail heads downwards once again, switching back through rocky terrain before entering an overgrown bushy stretch, looking down is important as the trail in uneven and after the snow was very wet and very slippery.
The trail eventually enters the forest, with old growth, towering trees and before you know it, you are hiking up into the Numa Creek Campground, the cooking area and bear lockers as well as a toilet are on one side, cross the river and the tent pads are spread out all over the other side of the river. At first it appears to be a small site but the majority of tents pads are located after the washroom, further up the hill.
Day Four Numa Creek To Floe Lake
Distance: 10km
Elevation: 790m gain, 300m loss
Day four of backpacking the Rockwall trail is another day which is on the shorter side but with lots of elevation gain to get up to Numa Pass. Today feels like a trail of never ending and increasingly steep switchbacks, there are a lot of larch trees as the pass gets closer and a small stream to refill any water. It was so cold the second time we did this trail in larch season though, that the stream was frozen!
As the switchbacks slow, the trail reaches a plateau with views back down the valley the day started in and as you continue through the plateau, the trees start to thin and eventually the pass comes into sight.
The trails crosses loose rocky terrain from here to the pass, the wind was absolutely awful on our second time backpacking the Rockwall trail. When reaching the pass, Floe Lake can be seen in the valley below.
After the pass, the trail traverses before heading down to Floe Lake, the final campground while backpacking the Rockwall Trail. Floe Lake is, in my opinion, the nicest campground on the whole of the Rockwall Trail. The campground is large, spread out over the steep side coming up from the lake.
There are two cooking areas, both with lake views, as well as two outhouses. There is a warden cabin near the lake shore and a stream running beside it, making for a great place to get some water and save your filter from pumping lake water.
Spend some time in the evening or morning by the lakeshore if it’s still, the reflection is just beautiful. However the campground and especially the cooking areas, I’ve found to be notoriously windy!
Day Five: Floe Lake To Floe Lake Trailhead
Distance: 10km
Elevation: 30m gain, 730m loss
The last day of backpacking the Rockwall Trail is, thankfully, all downhill pretty much! Shortly after leaving Floe Lake campground the trail descends steeply down a series of switchbacks. I’m talking so steep your toes will hurt if you don’t have your boots done up tight!
At the base of the switchbacks is a creek, the trail here seems to disappear and reappear and it crosses the creek in a different place, each time I hike this trail. There is flagging tape to guide the way. Once across the creek the trail cuts across the side of the valley fairly high up still, heading out towards the highway.
Once the highway is in sight, the trail descends again, following a few switchbacks down to the river below. Across the river, there is a short flat stretch before a second bridge is reached. Once across, it’s a short stroll through the trees before you pop out at the car park and the completion of the Rockwall Trail.
