Last updated on January 5th, 2024 at 02:15 am
Backpacking the West Coast Trail is seen by many, as a must do backpacking trip in Canada. A spectacular 75km trek through the rainforest and beaches along the west shore of Vancouver Island. I paint a dream indeed! This dream isn’t all happy though, it is one of the most taxing backpacking trips I’ve completed and left me wishing for the steep mountain passes we usually frequent on our trips. Why, you ask? The mud….I won’t be the first or the last to tell you the mud on The West Coast Trail is like nothing I’ve ever experienced before.
Not only is navigating the, at times, knee deep mud, an absolute challenge so is the terrain. Tree roots galore and many slippery, litter the inland path. The wooden walkway, so modern in some areas, desperately needs some TLC in others and whilst passable, takes time to navigate. But the hardest part of this trail for me, was the ladders! Not being a huge fan of the things to start with, add in some mud, rain and a big backpack and it all just gets a little harder!
On the plus side, my legs have seen more large step movements while carrying weight than six months of workouts at the gym….I’m going to call myself ‘summer bod’ ready after hiking the West Coast Trail.
That being said, all the stress of the days hiking melts away when you are camped at the beach, looking out to the ocean for signs of wildlife whilst warming up by the fire. Then there are the days hiking along the beach, taking 100 photos of the rugged coastline. Somehow, it all seems to balance itself out and make this a trip people remember.
Which Way Should I Backpack The West Coast Trail
There are valid arguments about hiking The West Coast Trail in the North or South direction. Hike it Northbound and you get the hardest terrain out of the way in the first few days. Hike it southbound and your pack is lighter for the final day when you reach the highest point on the trail.
We decided to hike the trail Northbound. This had the added bonus of not needing to stress about being at the end of the trail in time to catch the last ferry. Missing it would result in a long trek back to the nearest campground.
Reserving Your Spot To Backpack The West Coast Trail
It is important to reserve your spot to backpack the West Coast Trail. Typically permits for the trail sell out on the day they are released. You can purchase them through the Parks Canada reservation service online. You’ll need to know which way you want to hike the trail, your start date, how long you will be on the trail and how many people are in your party.
Reservations for summer 2024 open on Monday 22nd January at 8am PT
Seven Day Itinerary For Backpacking The West Coast Trail
We backpacked the West Coast Trail from Gordon River to Pachena Bay, so northbound.
Day 1: Gordon River to Thrashers Cove
Distance: 6km
Time: 3 hours
After attending the 10am orientation with Parks Canada at the Gordon River trailhead, we all walked across the road and all got on the ferry. A 2 minute buzz across the channel and the true trailhead makes its appearance.
A steep ladder greets you as the first obstacle on the West Coast Trail, the first of many! It truly put my nerves to the test, I had no idea how hard these would actually be for me. At the top of the ladder is a muddy trudge with some elevation gain to reach the highest point of the trail.
The mud along this section, at least for us, wasn’t nearly as bad as further along the West Coast Trail, so don’t get lulled into a false sense of security!
The descent to Thrashers Cove campground is steep! The terrain is steep and it’s finished off with a ladder right down to camp. It’s a small campsite with lots of people squashed in a small area between the high tide mark and the steep cliff wall behind.
We wanted to hike around Owen’s Point and the tide didn’t allow that on day one, so we spent the night here.
Day 2: Thrashers Cove to Campers Bay
Distance: 7km
Time: 4 hours
We woke up at 4.30am, caught an incredible sunrise to be on the trail for 6am to reach Owen’s Point at low tide. It was the perfect way to start our trip on the West Coast Trail.
First off, the Boulder field! There were scrapes and scratched galore trying to navigate the steep and slippery rocks. The crabs in this area are out of control, I’ve never seen so many in my entire life, very few rocks didn’t play host to one or more. I even joked we’d have to check for hitchhikers once out of the boulder field!
It was beyond slow going through this section. I was incredibly grateful we had lots of time to navigate this area, I have no doubt that if you were racing the tide this would be an easy area to make a mistake and end up in trouble. So make sure to leave yourself plenty of time. Parks Canada estimates you’ll need approximately 2 hours to get to Owens Point via the boulder field.
Out of the boulder field, the islands at Owen’s Point reveal their full glory. A great spot to stop on a log and enjoy a snack and the sunshine!
A short distance further you find the Owen’s Point cave, a big cave with plenty of entrances. An awesome spot to explore and enjoy, but don’t expect to have it to yourself! This is for many, one of the highlights of backpacking the West Coast Trail.
After the cave, travel is mostly along rock shelves above the ocean with lots of surge channels to navigate. If you can’t navigate through them, look to the trees, the buoys mark the route through the trees.
The pools on the rock shelves are teeming with life, it’s a lot of fun to slow down and see what you can spot moving in them! Before you know it, buoys mark the end of the beach trail, a steep and muddy climb up from the beach brings you back into the forest for a few kilometers. Plenty of ladders and finally a cable car over the river. Once off the cable car, you are at camp!
Campers is a busy campground on The West Coast Trail. We arrived early but decided not to continue on since the next camp was washed out and we had heard from previous Campers heading south, day three wasn’t much fun.
Day 3: Campers Bay to Walbran Creek
Distance: 9km
Time: 5 hours
This was truly a day which broke my spirits on the West Coast Trail. Mud…..so much mud! Never ending, rock hopping, wet pools of deep mud was the story of the day!
Backpacking this section of the West Coast Trail showed all the rainforest has to offer, huge old growth trees, beautiful green ferns and even the odd flower!
Once again, there were a few ladders, the one which takes you down to Cullite Cove and back up the otherside were a particular struggle just due to the sheer size of the ladders, lots of upwards pushing for the old legs! On any other year we likely would have pushed past Campers Bay and camped at Cullite Cove on day two, however in summer 2022 Cullite Cove was closed due to a washout.
So onwards we trekked towards Walbran Creek. I had mud right up to my shorts, on my sleeves, you name it, I’d managed to get mud on it by the end of the day. Including a very fetching patch on my bum following a slip and slide incident down a bank…oddly enough, while trying to avoid a giant bog of mud!
The highlight of the day was the absolutely huge bridge crossing one of the creeks, there is even a bench area on one side to sit and enjoy a much needed snack!
Once across the bridge it’s more mud, more boardwalk and some thinner forest areas which were a nice break for the otherwise all enclosed forest. Some of the ladders here were missing the odd rung, nothing you couldn’t get past, just a bigger than average step for us who are slightly shorter!
Walbrun Creek campground is nice, with creek sites, forest spots and some along the beach. There is a deep pool right before the ocean, perfect for a chilly dip if you so wish and while we were there at least, plenty of firewood! A great spot to spend the night.
We arrived just before high tide for the day meaning the beach access was impassible so we set up camp for the night and decided on an early start the next day. In all honesty, we didn’t have it in us to keep going much further and we certainly didn’t want to do any more backpacking through the rainforest that day.
There were some nice sections of boardwalk which made a bit of travel easier but on the whole, the day was slow going. Walbran Creek campsite, although busy, is a beautiful spot to spend the night, looking out at the ocean and with one of the nicest swimming spots on the whole trail.
Day 4: Walbran Creek to Cribs Creek
Distance: 12km
Time: 5 hours
We woke up bright and early and hit the trail hard. We were blessed with sunny weather, perfect for beach hiking! First we failed to cross Walbrun Creek, it was still too deep and fast moving for my liking, so we opted for the cable car. This particular cable car was a doozie! It was a long crossing and took some serious effort to pull ourselves over to the other side.
Before we knew it we were on the beach, making mostly easy kilometers. We didn’t see another person for at least two hours! Bliss!
Lots of eagles were in the trees and flying over head. We took our time, took lots of breaks and a lot of pictures!
In what seemed like a blink of an eye we were at the lighthouse, climbing through the forest, to avoid the headland. It felt extra muddy after our time spent on the beach!
We missed the first beach access and ended up further down shore, which was fine. From there it was a short two kilometer beach walk to our camp for the night. During this short stretch we spotted a big rock in the ocean, covered in sea lions!
Many of the people we had started out with opted to hike on through this day due to time constraints. Having already hiked 12km, we decided we didn’t need to add on another 17km to the next campsite. So called it good, set up the tent and spent the sunny afternoon splashing in the waves and washing my shorts which had got muddy the day before.
The Cribs Creek campground was a busy spot and in the early evening we got a show by some whales playing out in the ocean in front of the campground!
Day 5: Cribs Creek to Tsusiat Falls
Distance: 17km
Time: 8 hours
This was a big day and besides paying to camp at the crab shack there are no campgrounds on this stretch meaning it has to be completed in one day.
It was raining when we woke, so we packed quickly and hit the trail. Hoping to catch the tide right. Our day started with a walk along some rock ledges….slippery since the tide had only just left and it was raining hard.
Round the corner and it was a mix of sand and rock shelf to contend with. The tide hadn’t gone out far enough for us to pass at one point meaning a lengthy backtrack and into the forest for a short while. But before we knew it we were cruising on a wide sandy beach for two kilometers. We even saw some wolf tracks in the sand!
Into the forest we ducked, lots of board walking in this section but some serious boggy sections too just before Nihtnat Lake. Once at the lake…crab shack time. They serve a very limited menu but it tastes so good. I had steamed crab and have zero regrets. They also have pop, beer and snacks as well as other essentials you may have forgotten!
From the crab shack it’s a short ferry ride across the lake, you’ll need to show your permit you were given at orientation to get on the ferry…so don’t lose it!
Then the fun really begins. The mud on the rainforest trail between the lake and Tsusiat Falls was bad….like day three bad. Slippery and deep it was tough going on a trail which went up and down. Eventually it was time to pop out on the beach again.
The long sandy shore stretched in front of us, the tide was coming in by this point so we moved fast. Unfortunately we missed the opportunity to hike through the hole in Tsusiat Point since the tide had come in too far. We got close though and then cut across the headland.
On the other side it was more beach walking/running as the tide was coming in fast by this point. The first sign we had reached the camp was the toilets, these outhouses were raised and looked out over the ocean, it doesn’t get better than that!
The Tsusiat Falls campground is popular, it was hard to find a spot to pitch our tent but we found one under the cliff, near the waterfall. Tsusiat Falls is an incredible waterfall, dropping straight from the cliff above into a pool below before running out into the ocean. A beautiful spot for a swim.
Day 6: Tsusiat Falls to Michigan Creek Campground
Distance: 13km
Time: 5 hours
Heading north while backpacking the West Coast Trail leaves you only one option out of Tsusiat Falls campground, that is up a giant ladder combination. Take is slow, this is a real tough set of ladders on the legs! Once at the top the trail crosses a bridge which goes right across the river which creates the Tsusiat Falls. Stop on the bridge and marvel at the way the water just disappears!
The views from this short section of the trail are beautiful looking back towards the falls and campground from high above. Its only a short section of rainforest walking before you can head down onto the beach again.
I must say this was the hardest beach walking of the entire trip. Larger rocks and sinking sand made it slow going on tired legs. When we backpacked the West Coast Trail, Darling Creek campground was closed due to a bear in the area so we kept going to Michigan Creek. The Darling creek crossing doesn’t have a cable car and can run quite high at times, so we had no choice but to take our shoes off and wade across.
We were the first campers to arrive at Michigan Creek campground. It was windy, so we found a sheltered spot in the trees, people before us had used old fishing nets to rig up hammocks in the trees and these provided the perfect lounging spot on our final night.
Since Michigan Creek is the first and final campground while backpacking the West Coast Trail, it is busy! But a great spot to meet people fresh on the trail and exchange stories with those heading off the trail the following day. It was also one of the worst campsites for trash.
Day 7: Michigan Creek to Pachena Bay
Distance: 12km
Time: 3 hours
Most people were up early, rushing to make sure they didn’t miss the shuttle from Pachena Bay to their vehicles. We had parked at the end of the trail so after backpacking the West Coast Trail, we could just get into our vehicle and go home. So we had a slow morning before hitting the trail.
It’s a pretty easy final day of backpacking on the West Coast Trail, flat and easy with limited mud! Due to the pandemic the Pachena Lighthouse was closed to the public, you could only stand at the gate to admire it.
A short distance further there are some carved benches and a scratchy sign signaling the turnoff to see the sealions! We took our chance and headed down the trail, you do lose some elevation but its worth it. So many sea lions on one rock, jumping in and out of the water, fighting and just generally making a lot of noise. It would be easy to stay and watch these animals all day.
More forest walking follows, as you get to Pachena Bay, if the tide is low, head out to the beach to avoid an incredible amount of elevation gain and some hefty ladders five minutes from the end of the trail!
Once at Pachena Bay, head into the Parks Canada office to sign yourself off the trail.
Trailheads on The West Coast Trail
There are three entrance points on the West Coast Trail, Gordon River near Port Renfrew, at the south end of the trail. Pachena Bay near Bamfield at the north of the trail and then Nitinaht Narrows in the middle.
The two trailheads at either end are accessible by road. Note that the drive to the Pachena Bay trailhead can be very rough and will take over an hour of driving on rough, unpaved road to reach. I’d recommend a high clearance vehicle and to give yourself plenty of time to complete this drive. Gordon River is easily accessible by paved roads. Entering via Nitinaht Narrows requires navigation of forestry roads followed by a ferry ride.
The easiest and most cost effective way to get between trailheads, either at the start of your trip or the end is the West Coast Trail Shuttle. This services all three trailheads as well as Nanaimo and Victoria. Reservations are recommended if you don’t want to be left stranded.
We decided to park at the end of the trail and get the shuttle the day prior to starting the West Coast Trail. This meant we could just leave and didn’t need to wait for the shuttle after we finished backpacking the West Coast Trail. The road to Pachena Bay was rough as discussed above though. The shuttle then takes approximately three slow and mostly rough hours along logging roads.
There are campgrounds at both Pachena Bay and Gordon River which are both really close to the trailheads and easily accessible on foot from the bus.
What You’ll Need For Backpacking The West Coast Trail
75km and plenty of ladders mean you’ll want to pack light but also be prepared for any and all weather. The West Coast Trail is notorious for how much it rains and how much mud there is on the trail.
Here are a few items I wouldn’t head out without!
Waterproof hiking boots. I wore the North Face Vectiv Enduris boots.
Gators, invest in some goretex gators and you won’t regret it.
Fishing shirts, these lightweight, breathable shirts keep the sun off you and dry fast if they get wet or you need to wash them!
Good quality socks will go a long way to making life a little better while backpacking the West Coast Trail.
Gloves, I saw many others with gloves and hadn’t thought about taking them, but a pair of lightweight gloves seemed to be really handy for collecting driftwood, climbing ladders without getting filthy and navigating the boulders which required a lot of hands on rock time.
Collapsible hiking poles. I took my typical old ski poles and when I needed my hands for ladders I stuck them between my pack and my back but honestly they destroyed my shirt and I still haven’t managed to get the thing clean. Plus i got stuck between boulders and they made navigating that section quite difficult. Collapsible poles, although not something I would usually recommend, would have come in very handy for this trip.
An sos safety device, backpacking the West Coast Trail is not a walk in the park and many people require assistance on the trail every year, there is limited cell reception, we decided to purchase the Garmin InReach Mini 2 for this trip. It provided piece of mind for us as well as for our loved ones off the trail as we were able to check in with them.
A robust tent, it can downpour on the trail and get windy by the ocean, a solid and trusted tent will save you all kinds of heartache and stress if the weather gets awful!
First aid kit, I can’t even begin to tell you how many scratches and scrapes I got on this trail, struck by sticks navigating the trail, slipping over in the mud and of course the blisters from the sand I missed after having to take off my boots to cross rivers.
