Last updated on November 16th, 2023 at 03:55 pm
If you have ever considered completing a paddling trip in Western Canada, the likelihood is you’ve heard of the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit in British Columbia. This circuit attracts paddlers and novices alike from all over the world. We had been unlucky in the past and for one reason or another our prior reservations to complete this trip had been cancelled due to circumstances way beyond anyone’s control. Finally, this year, we got our redemption and I have to say, it was worth the wait.
I have to admit, canoeing is not something I have a lot of experience with, our biggest canoe trip being a few nights on Maligne Lake. For that reason, it is not something I feel overly confident in doing, so the thought of spending seven or more days paddling the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit was something that raised more than a few concerns for me. It turns out that although this trip was no walk in the park, it was an incredible learning experience and now I can’t wait to go and paddle the circuit again!
Due to the remote location, the specialist gear you might need and the reservations required, this trip takes a lot of planning. Luckily I have covered all the key points you need to know to make sure you too can have an incredible time on the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit.
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How To Reserve Your Spot On The Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit
Typically reservations for the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit open in the Fall or early winter the year prior. Reservations for the 2024 circuit bookings will open on Tuesday 24th October at 7am PST. Since paddling the canoe circuit it so popular it is worth booking on opening day as it does often sell out. Although you may later find a cancellation if you are flexible.
All reservations must be made on the BC Parks reservation website and you will need a profile to book.
There are a number of different booking options, the full circuit, which is $60 per person and the west circuit which is $30 per person, plus an $18 per canoe transaction fee. There are two time slots available, the 9am orientation and the noon orientation. Plus make sure to book whether you are individuals or a group correctly.
West Side Vs Full Circuit
There are two different paddle routes you can choose from when booking the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit. The first is the full circuit, allow six to ten days to complete this trip, at 116km in length it is a big undertaking.
The West side option allows you to start at the registration centre and paddle Bowron Lake through to Unna Lake and then back again, with many people choosing to only go as far as the end of Spectacle Lake in order to avoid the portages.
What Is A Group On The Canoe Circuit
Paddling the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit has a number of rules regarding groups, any party consisting of more than seven people, is considered a group, while no more than 14 people may paddle together in a group. Groups are also required to camp at group campsites along the circuit. These designated sites are larger than most typical sites on the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit and can hold one group at a time typically.
Completing the Full Circuit On The Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit
Registration And Weighing Of Gear
Before heading out on the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit you have to complete the registration on the day you have booked to start the circuit and you’ll be able to do this at any time between 9am and noon. This involves filling in some quick paperwork with Parks staff and watching an orientation video. You will be given a paper map and a garbage bag as well to take with you on the circuit.
Then head down to the scale to weigh your items and determine what can be carried in the canoe during portages and what you will have to carry. You can take a maximum of 60lbs in the canoe while portaging, not including paddles, life vests, bailer buckets. We used two large dry bags to keep our food, tent and sleep systems in. Everything else we carried in our backpacking packs for the portages. The Parks staff make a note of which bags can be in the canoe for portaging and attach it to the canoe, be prepared to encounter parks staff on the trail who will check this information.
Daily Itinerary
Day One: Registration Centre to Indianpoint Lake
Once you have been given the green light by the Parks staff after weighing your gear, strap the canoe cart on because the first obstacle is a 2.4km portage. If like me, it’s one of your first times portaging, expect a rough learning experience as your gear rattles around the canoe as you push uphill over a rocky trail. Mentally prepare yourself, that this is by no means, the west portage on the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit.
At the end of the trail you put your boat into Kibbee Creek, enjoy the calmness of this section of the paddle before it opens up onto Kibbee Lake. A short paddle takes you to the far end of the lake and the second portage.
This 2km portage is much easier than the first being less rocky and flatter. It is easy to make good time on this stretch before ending up at Indianpoint Lake. We kept to the shore on this lake, taking in the first of the ranger cabins and checking out some campsites. Site 5 has a beautiful sandy beach, while we ended up at site 6, a bigger site split into three areas, each with their own water access. We had the whole place to ourselves. A perfect first night, with a swim and a campfire.
Day Two: Indianpoint Lake To Isaac Lake
On the water early, before the wind picked up, we headed out, paddling along the shoreline looking for wildlife. Once at the end of the lake, we found the map a little confusing and the channel marker was missing, but you weave through a shallow channel through the reeds at the end of the lake. Eventually we found a channel marker and made our way through to a small lake with a dock at the end.
Take out here and prepare for the third portage. Again this portage is fairly easy and flat, however as you near Isaac Lake it can become very muddy! At one point we took everything out of the canoe and carried it to the lake edge and then carried the canoe across the mud.
Once at Isaac Lake it’s a relaxed paddle along the West Arm of the lake. We spent night two of the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit, camping at site 15, a storm was coming and this larger site had a shelter, perfect for weathering the storm which went on all night.
Day Three: Isaac Lake
Campsite 15 on the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit is located at the corner of the west and main arm of Isaac Lake. The main arm of the lake is 31.2 kilometers, so we spent the entire day paddling down the main arm. The views are incredible and if you are into fishing, this is meant to be the best lake to fish on.
We made it to campsite 23, a beautiful spot with a sandy beach. We did some fishing here and had some success! We did catch and release and if you do want to fish on the Bowron Lakes Canoe Circuit, you will need a BC fishing licence.
Day Four: Isaac Lake to Lanezi Lake
Day four was our longest day on the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit with our Garmin tracking us doing just over 27 kilometers of paddling and portaging! Needless to say we were exhausted when we got to camp.
We started out with a paddle down Isaac Lake, we were lucky and there was no wind which made it much easier! A pull in at the end of the lake to check out the chute. The chute should only be attempted by experienced paddlers since it requires navigating a fast moving river rapid with a 90 degree turn right afterwards. Pull out at the campground just before and check it out before attempting it.
While there, check out all the paddles on the shelter and make one and hang it yourself to add to the collection. We decided to avoid the chute not wanting to dump our gear into the river if it went wrong. Its a short easy portage to where everyone else has to pull out of the river as well.
The portage along the Isaac River is compulsory and it is tough! Rocky with lots of mud holes, take your time on this one. Then it’s into the river for a short fast section. Getting from the portage to the main river channel is tricky here with lots of rocks in the way. We took our time since we had a rented canoe! The river here is fast, there is one small rapid before the take out on the opposite side of the river.
Then comes, what I think, is the hardest portage of the whole Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit. It is steep, rocky and twists around before steeply descending. Stop just before the descent to check out the waterfall you are avoiding!
At the end of the portage, we took a lunch break before pushing the canoe out onto a sand bank, loading up and heading into McLeary Lake, a short lake, with a cabin but no campsite located on the shore.
At the end of the lake, the Caribou River begins, here you’ll need a strong paddler in the back to do the steering as the river flows quickly in parts and there are lots of sweepers and deadheads as well as many sharp turns. This section goes on for over 5 kilometers before ending in Lanezi Lake, look for wildlife and enjoy the mountain views as you go.
As you enter the lake, look out for sandbars which you may get caught up on during low water periods. The first campground on the lake was full so we continued on to number 27, a larger campground with a shelter but when we stayed we only shared it with one other tent! A beautiful spot to watch the sunset and enjoy the last of the big mountain views.
Day Five: Lanezi Lake To Unna Lake
Lanezi Lake might have been one of my favorites on the the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit with its huge mountains and numerous gorgeous campgrounds. As always we got up early and paddled while the lake was glass. We still had a lot of kilometers to cover on the lake so it took us a while to finally reach the end.
The lake turns into a wide channel which is easy to navigate and ends with a little curve to avoid a sandbar before turning into Sandy Lake. This is a shorter but wide lake with three campgrounds all with beautiful beaches. It would make a great option to stay for the night if you didn’t want to complete the small detour to Unna Lake.
We kept paddling through Sandy Lake though and back onto the Caribou River at the far end. The flow in this section was easy to manage, although when we completed it, the wind was blowing against us so it felt like hard work even paddling with the current.
The river has an almost 90 degree bend in it and after this point you’ll see the Babcock Creek inlet on the right and shortly after a channel marker shows the way into Unna Lake.
Unna Lake has a number of campsites all spread along the left shore line as you paddle in, most have sandy beaches and gorgeous views. A great spot for the night.
For those with the energy, paddle across to the opposite shore and head along the Caribou Falls trail to check out the incredibly powerful falls. A worthwhile detour on the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit even if you aren’t staying at Unna Lake.
Day Six: Unna Lake To Spectacle Lakes
Leaving Unna Lake requires a paddle back up the river a short way to get back to the Babcock Creek entrance, its a tough way to start the day, but a great warm up. Once in the creek, there was some serious beaver work occurring and we ended up have to get out of the canoe and pull the boat over and around some beaver damns before getting to the portage take out.
This easy portage was a welcome relief, mostly flat and wide before putting in at Babcock Lake. I have to say, the bugs here at the put-in were some of the worst we experienced on the whole loop, so we didn’t hang around here.
At the end of Babcock Lake is a shorter portage into Skoi Lake, follow the channel from the end of the portage into the lake through the reeds. Skoi Lake is very small and before you know it, you are at the last portage on the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit!
This tiny portage, I didn’t even put shoes on for. A short walk with the canoe takes you to Spectacle Lakes. This pretty lake has a huge sandbar not long after you start paddling, once again we ended up getting out of the canoe and walking across the shallow sandbar.
There are lots of incredible spots to camp on this lake with big sandy beaches being the norm. We ended up paddling to site 29, a smaller site with a steep climb up to the camping area but a beautiful beach area, perfect for a swim in the warm shallows.
Day Seven: Spectacle Lakes To Bowron Lake
Just like that, it’s the last day on the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit. Getting up early, we hit the water and went around the big island in the middle of the lake before making it into Swan Lake. There are lots of opportunities to spot wildlife around this area, although we didn’t see anything other than some eagles.
As Swan Lake comes to an end, look for the orange channel markers to make your way through the river. There are some gorgeous views along this stretch, we took our time and went slowly, eyes peeled for wildlife.
The river winds through the reeds and there are plenty of channel markers to help you navigate as there are lots of options and offshoots where you could go wrong.
Eventually it opens up into Bowron Lake, the final lake on the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit! It seems to go on forever, but eventually you make it to the end. We took out at the Becker’s Lodge takeout at the boat ramp. There is also a dock a short walk from the registration, if that is where you left your vehicle.
Standard 7 Day Itinerary
Most people complete the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit over seven days, below you’ll find a standard seven day itinerary to complete the circuit. With the ability to pick and choose campsites along the way you may find you have to adjust this slightly.
Night 1: Indianpoint Lake
Night 2: Isaac Lake
Night 3: Issac Lake
Night 4: Lanezi Lake
Night 5: Unna Lake
Night 6: Spectacle Lake
Gear Rentals For The Bowron Lakes Canoe Circuit
If you don’t have the gear to complete the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit, no problem! We rented a canoe and cart from Becker’s Lodge, this came with paddles, bailer, sponge and life vests ready to hit the circuit. You can also rent barrels and dry bags, as well as almost anything else you might need from tents to stoves!
They have different size and styles of canoe to choose from as well and are super knowledgeable to help you find the right boat for your trip. We had a great experience renting our equipment here.
They drop your boat at the registration center for your orientation time, you can leave your vehicle with them and they’ll lock your keys up for you and then when you finish the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit, you can take out at the boat ramp right there, leave the canoe at the dock and they’ll pick it up for you. It was a phenomenal service.
Bowron Lake Lodge offers a similar system for renting canoes, with the ability to land back on their beach and they will drive you back to your vehicle at the registration centre. Again they have a range of different canoes at different price points, depending on what you are looking for.
Where To Stay Before Or After Your Trip
We had booked to stay at the Bowron Lake Provincial Park campground the night prior to the trip. If you have your own gear, this is a great option, being right beside the registration centre and weigh scales. That being said, when we stayed there, the bugs were apocalyptic, worse than we experienced anywhere on the canoe circuit. So come prepared.
If we were to do the trip again, we would probably book a camp spot at Becker’s Lodge or even stay in one of their cute cabins the night before. They do discounted deals if you stay with them and rent equipment from them, which makes this a worthwhile option. Some of their tenting spots have incredible views down the Bowron Lake too, plus there are coin showers on site!
After we finished our trip, we headed out of the park and back to main highway to grab a bite to eat in Quesnel and then camped just up the road at 10 Mile Lake Provincial Park, there are showers and a swimming area at the lake, so its a great spot to spend the night before heading home.
There are numerous hotels and motels in Quesnel too which you could stay at before or after your trip. From big brands such as Sandman and Quality Inn, to the more unique Billy Barker Casino Hotel, there is something for everyone.
Gear You Should Bring
If you want to be more comfortable, I can’t recommend taking a small collapsible chair more. There are some benches at a few campgrounds but not at all, so it was nice to have a chair to sit on and even better down at the beach.
Dry bags will go a long way to helping keep your gear dry. We used an assortment, larger bags which stayed in the canoe and then smaller ones in our backpacks to protect our clothes and sleeping bags.
We took our Garmin Inreach Mini 2 as we always do when we go into the backcountry. This allows family to track our progress and also allows us to check in with them every day.
A pair of shoes which can be used on both water and land will allow you to move more effortlessly between paddling and portaging. I loved my Chaco sandals for this. I did also have my hiking boots for longer, rougher portages as well, just in case!
We were so thankful for our tarp when the heavens opened and it poured for an entire 12 hours. It helped keep our tent dry and gave us a small area to sit on our chairs while we waited out the storm in the dry.
This is bear country, so make sure to pack bear spray, especially for while you are at camp and portaging. Make sure it is easily accessible.
Tip For Completing The Bowron Lake Circuit From One Beginner To Another
We like to get out on the water earlier in the day, this meant less wind and easier paddling conditions for the most part.
Paddling close to shore means if the wind picks up or anything happens and you end up out of the boat, you don’t have too far to swim to safety. It also makes it easier to spot wildlife and find the campgrounds since some of them are tucked into coves.
Don’t be afraid to portage around the hardest part. The shoot and rollercoaster are for experienced paddlers. We chose to portage around as I didn’t feel confident in my ability. There were other groups assessing the situation too and once we said we were potaging, many others did too.
Plan an extra day to do the circuit, this means if you are tired, want a rest day or a shorter day, you can. Worst case if the weather is bad and paddling conditions are tough, you can wait it out at camp for a day, rather than pushing it. If you don’t need the extra day, great, if you do, you have it and it’s one less thing to stress about.
Do not over pack, its easier said than done, considering you are mostly carrying your gear in a canoe, but try and keep it fairly light. You don’t need a lot to have a wicked time on the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit. The more you have, the harder the portages are!
Come up with a rough plan of where you’d like to camp and how far you’d like to paddle when you get up in the morning. This will make you more likely to stay on track and not end up having to put in some huge days at the end to finish the trip.
Paddle the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit in a smaller group if you can, one or two tents is ideal since then you have more choice in campgrounds you can stay at. Although there are a number of larger sites, these are well spaced out with most sites having one to four tent pads. The more tents in your party, the longer your days may end up being trying to find a camping spot for the night.
