Last updated on April 22nd, 2024 at 05:21 pm
So you want to try backpacking into Assiniboine Provincial Park? This is your guide to the hike and some tips I learnt along the way. Assiniboine Provincial Park was the backpacking trip that started it all for me. I was so excited to try out backpacking and this was the first big trip I booked. I did try out a little overnight practice close to home before we headed out for such a big trip. Since backpacking into Assiniboine for the first time I’ve completed numerous other backcountry trips and even gone back to Assiniboine for a second trip.
Both times I have been backpacking into Assiniboine I have done it as a thru-hike, starting at Sunshine Resort and ending at Mount Shark. The trailheads are approximately 85km apart so you’ll need two cars. Sunshine village does offer a free shuttle bus to the resort from Banff though if you don’t want to leave two cars spread apart.
If you are going to hike out and back I would recommend starting at Mount Shark, you can still do a loop this way by heading in through Assiniboine Pass and back out via Wonder Pass and Marvel Lake, which is stunning!
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Backpacking Into Assiniboine: Sunshine Village to Magog Lake
Distance: 29km
Elevation gain: 450m gain and 427m loss
When backpacking into Assiniboine, I like to ride the Sunshine Gondola up to the main village where you can pick up the main trail. Sunshine Village have confirmed that the gondola will be operating again for summer 2022! If you don’t want to splash the cash, you can walk up the ski out but you are adding a fair amount of elevation to your day from the very beginning. I haven’t ever ridden the chairlift further up the mountain mostly because although it saves you a little elevation it adds a few kilometers on to your day, plus trying to get off a moving chairlift with a 65 liter backpack is never going to end well for me!
From Sunshine Village follow the start of the sunshine meadows trail before taking a clearly signed trail to the left and continue through the flat meadows, watch for bears here! You’ll pass the Howard Douglas campground, fill up with water here using your filter, the next easy spot to fill up isn’t until Og Lake after this if you are hiking all the way in, in one day. At around the 9km mark you’ll reach Citadel Pass, it’s beautiful here with a number of scrambling routes nearby.
After the pass you’ll head through more meadows before starting downhill…..steeply! I can’t even begin to tell you how helpful hiking poles were at this part to save my poor knees! You’ll switchback down before reaching a clear junction, if you take the right, you’ll head down to Porcupine Campground, if you are hiking to Og or Magog Lake in one day you’ll carry on along the trail, it skirts high up above the valley floor before you reach the Valley of the Rocks.
The trail scoots and winds through the forest while you marvel at the giant rocks littering the floor. As you leave the Valley of the Rocks you find yourself looking down on to Og Lake with Mount Assiniboine in the background. Follow the path as it descends to Og Lake, the perfect place for a snack and to cool off your feet as well as filling up your water bottles!
From here it is a 7km mostly flat stretch through meadows, signage around Og and Magog Lake a great and you’ll soon pick up directions on how to get to Magog Lake and Assiniboine Lodge. After you pass the turn off for the lodge, follow the trail another 1-2km above the lake to reach Magog Lake Campground.
Choosing a Campground: Og and Magog Campsites
When backpacking into Assiniboine Provincial Park you have two main campground choices, Og Lake and Magog Lake, some choose to stay at both, others pick one to base themselves from for a number of days.
Og Campground is located right on Og Lake and consists of 10 tent pads, a drop toilet and a communal cooking area with bear bins. There is very little shade at the Og Lake campground but you are close enough to the lake to go for a chilly dip to cool off! Many enjoy staying at Og Lake while backpacking into Assiniboine because it is considerably quieter than Magog Lake.
Magog Campground is made of 40 tent pads, a number of drop toilets, a covered cook shelter and a number of uncovered cooking areas. There are also bear bins and bear hangs. It’s worth investing in a waterproof bag you can hang your food in, the bins fill up fast! There is a campground map as you enter off the trail however it can be a little confusing, there are clusters of tent pads all over the place and quite often you have to walk around a lot to find an empty spot.
Reservations at Magog and Og Lake Campgrounds are mandatory for anyone backpacking into Assiniboine and can be booked up to four months in advance on the BC Parks Reservation Website. Book early to avoid disappointment!
The great thing about the Og Campground is that it is much smaller and quieter than Magog and can make a great first night if you don’t want to hike the 29km to Magog Campground. On the other hand Magog Campground feels much more busy and close to the action, you aren’t lakeside by any means but a short 1km walk will get you to the Assiniboine Lodge and you have many more hiking opportunities from Magog Campground compared to Og Campground. Either way after backpacking into Assiniboine, you’ll be happy for a place to lay your head and rest your legs!
Along with the campgrounds in the central Assiniboine area you can also stay at Assiniboine Lodge, however they are fully booked for summer 2023 currently and operating a waitlist according to their website.
Assiniboine Lodge also operated the Naiset huts which are basic huts for sleeping and have a communal cook shelter. These operate during both summer and winter. The huts can only be booked in their entirety for Summer 2024 and reservations open on January 9th 2023 at 8:30am MST. Reservations are only taken over the phone and in 2023 every night was reserved by noon the day after reservations opened.
Backpacking into Assiniboine: Lake Magog to Mount Shark – Via Wonder Pass and Marvel Lake
Distance: 27.5km
Elevation: 230m
Just like the way in, the hike out via Wonder Pass and Marvel Lake is big on views! From the campground, head back around the Magog Lake and past Assiniboine Lodge, everything is clearly signposted as the trail winds up and past the Naiset Huts. As you pass across Gog Creek and Gog Lake keep an eye out for color bursting wildflowers. After the lake the trail starts to head up with a series of switchbacks winding through a larch forest.
A cairn at the top signals you have reached Wonder Pass. The views from up here are beautiful in every direction, take some time to enjoy this moment. After you start to descend there is a trail which spurs off towards the left, 1km down here and you’ll reach a viewpoint looking out over Marvel Lake, it is one way so you’ll have to backtrack to get on the main trail again.
The main trail soon turns into long, steep switchbacks as you rapidly descend the views of Marvel Lake and Lake Gloria beside it continue to improve, helping to distract you from the pain in your knees. Poles for this section are highly recommended!
After the switchbacks the trail levels out and runs across the mountain side high above Marvel Lake as you make your way from one end to the other. It gets hot out here so make sure you have water and put on sunscreen, there is little shade! After 12km on the trail, there is a junction, head right and you’ll head down to Marvel Lake, from here you can cut through the forest and past the Marvel Lake Campground before joining back up with the main trail.
If you continue on the main trail, you’ll cross Bryant Creek then cross through meadows close to the warden cabin and Bryant Creek Campgrounds. Turn on to the wide Bryant Creek Trail and head on through the forest, the Marvel Lake Trail joins up with this shortly after.
The Bryant Creek Trail leads into the Mount Shark recreation area, stick with the main trail as you pass by cross country ski trails. I find this part drags a little as you know you are on the home stretch but it seems to go on for a long time! You’ll end up at the Mount Shark parking area, take your shoes off and drop your pack in the car, you made it!
Hikes While You Are in Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park
Due to the big hike in and out I personally like to book a few days at the Magog campground when I am backpacking into Assiniboine. This gives me time to rest but also explore the area and do some shorter day hikes!
1. Sunburst, Cerulean and Elizabeth Lakes
Distance: 8km
Elevation: 135m
This easy trail starts from just outside the Magog Lake Campground. Follow the signs from the back of the campground and you;ll soon be at Sunburst Lake, walk along the path as it follows close to the shore and past the Elizabeth Rummel Hut, keep on the main trail and you’ll end up at the end of Cerulean Lake, a trail winds around the length of the lake and then heads down through the valley. As you first see the lake a trail heads off on the right hand side, follow this upwards past the Nub Peak junction and eventually you’ll end up at Elizabeth Lake.
2. Nub Peak
Distance: 11.6km
Elevation: 578m
The Nub Peak trail can be accessed from the back of the Magog Campground and is probably the most popular trail for those backpacking into Assiniboine to complete. Head past Sunburst Lake and at the junction at Cerulean Lake hang right. Once you have climbed up through the forest, take the right hand trail and follow it up, up and up some more! There are three areas where you can stop for incredible views.
The Niblet, the lowest of the three points, then the Nublet, where most of the iconic images looking out over the lakes and Mount Assiniboine are taken from and lastly the summit, Nub Peak. The trail is clear to follow and steep in places but the views are absolutely worth it. I went up to the Nublet to enjoy the sunset one night, a totally amazing experience!
3. Windy Ridge
Distance: 17.4km
Elevation: 470m
This beautiful hike is north from Assiniboine Lodge toward Og Mountain, the first few kilometers are a nice warm up as you walk through flat meadows. As you reach the forest you’ll start to ascend towards Og Pass. At the pass the trail gets steeper again, turning to a number of switchbacks, now out of trees the views get better and better as you get higher. The trail starts to get a little loose under foot but nothing too bad. Once at Windy Ridge you are greeted with overlooking views of the surrounding mountains and valleys.
4. Wonder Peak
Distance:10km
Elevation: 500m
Wonder Peak is an unmarked trail, accessed by heading to Wonder Pass and then at the pass, following a faint, unmarked trail heading left across the grass. Once you get to the base the trail is clear as it heads up across the rock. This is a leg burner as it heads up rapidly, but the views make it worthwhile. This is rated as an easy scramble rather than a hike, so make sure you are prepared for this, it is slightly more technical than a standard hike.
Top Tips for Backpacking into Assiniboine Provincial Park
- My top tip for backpacking into Assiniboine is to fly in some goodies! You can pay to have items flown in via helicopter, this could be your backpack but I like to fly in food and wine! Treats you wouldn’t usually have when you are camping in the backcountry. I find arriving at camp and having a few luxuries waiting for you makes backpacking into Assiniboine even better. Drop off your package with Alpine Helicopters in Canmore and they will fly it out to the lodge where you can pick it up and pay for it.
- If you choose to split up your trip backpacking into Assiniboine, be aware that Porcupine Campground requires a knee killing loss of elevation which you have to make up for straight out of the campground the next day.
- A highlight of backpacking into Assiniboine, for me, is that you can go to Assiniboine Lodge daily for afternoon tea, think yummy cake and ice cold soda, beer and cider. Three days into your trip when it’s the middle of august that cold drink will be the best thing you’ve ever tasted trust me!
- The mosquitoes at Magog Lake Campground on our first trip were some of the worst I have ever experienced! Find out how I’ve learnt to deal with mosquitoes in the backcountry here.
