Last updated on May 14th, 2024 at 07:30 pm
The Sawback Trail is a backpacking trail that has been on my list for a long time but due to backcountry closures and time, has never quite come to fruition for me. This trail runs between Mount Norquay Ski Resort in Banff and The Lake Louise Ski Resort and for us has been one to do ‘for the glory’ for a while. I mean who can live in Banff for eight years and not have hiked to Lake Louise.
So even though temperatures were forecast to be in the high 20’s and we’d be hiking for some long days, we decided it was finally our year. I couldn’t find all that much information about the trail so booked it fairly blind, based on the distances I knew I could hike in a day and choosing some of the more scenic campgrounds along the trail.
Please note that some of the links below are affiliate links, so I may earn a small commission on any purchase made, at no additional cost to you. This helps me keep the blog running, so thank you for your support!
Table of Contents
Which Way Should You Hike The Trail?
Lake Louise sits at a higher elevation than Banff so for many, choosing to start at Lake Louise would be the most obvious choice. However, we decided that we would plan our trip, starting in Banff. With three mountain passes to navigate we figured it probably didn’t make much difference.
If I’m honest most people we encountered on the trail seemed to be hiking it from Lake Louise. Having completed the Sawback trail, I’d now say I would always start in Banff, the elevation gain to the majority of passes seemed easier coming from the Banff side, with the exception on the last push to get up to the Skoki Valley and Baker Lake.
Suggested Itineraries
Regardless of your chosen route when it comes to backpacking the Sawback Trail, you’ll need to make reservations. While we were hiking the trail, we found that all bar one campground was only half full. One night we had the entire site to ourselves. That being said, the reservation system showed all sites were full a few days before we departed. Parks Canada reservations typically open in January, reserve then to guarantee you get the sites you want!
There are other campgrounds along the Sawback trail, however these itineraries are based on some of the more scenic campgrounds, these are also the most popular!
For those with plenty of time the below will give you plenty of time and shorter days.
Night 1: Mount Cockscomb
Night 2: Mystic Valley
Night 3: Larrys Camp
Night 4: Luellen Lake
Night 5: Wildflower Creek
Night 6: Hidden Lake
Short on time, we did the trip in three nights and four days. I have to be honest, it was tough going with lots of long days, but plenty of breaks made it doable.
Night 1: Mystic Valley
Night 2: Luellen Lake
Night 3: Wildflower Creek
There are also a number of alternative options, for instance it is possible to enter the Sawback trail via Johnston Canyon or Moose Meadows, to spend your first night at Larrys Camp or Luellen Lake, then hike out to Lake Louise.
Alternatively you can extend your trip and see the Skoki area at the end of the Sawback Trail. This could be a great option to see two amazing trails and areas in one! This can either be done by starting at Mount Norquay or Johnston Canyon.
Night 1: Mystic Valley
Night 2: Luellen Lake
Night 3: Wildflower Creek
Night 4: Red Deer Lakes
Night 5: Merlin Meadows
Logistics Of Hiking The Sawback Trail
Since the Sawback Trail is a point to point trail, logistics can be a bit difficult. There are, however, excellent public transport options. We are lucky and have two vehicles, so we left one at the Fish Creek trailhead in Lake Louise for when we finished and one at Mount Norquay.
However, if you only had one vehicle, you could leave that at the Fish Creek trail head and walk back into Lake Louise where you could catch the Roam public transit bus back to Banff. Then when you were ready to commence your hike there is a free shuttle bus from Banff to Mount Norquay which you could ride to start the Sawback Trail.
For those entering or exiting from Johnston Canyon, a public bus also services this stop and can take you to or from Banff.
Hiking The Sawback Trail
Regardless of the campgrounds you choose along the way the trail is the same. When we hiked it, there were many downed trees and rugged, rough sections. Nothing unmanageable but there were certainly slow going sections!
Day One: Mount Norquay Ski Resort to Mystic Valley Campground
The Sawback trail starts at the Mount Norquay Ski Resort, you’ll have to follow the work road through the ski resort, signage here can be a bit hit and miss, after you pass the second chairlift there is a road on the left side, follow that. This junction is signposted, follow directions for Mystic Lake. The road heads upwards and across a number of ski runs. When you see a big green sign with ‘Easy Out’ on it, the trail is right there.
Day one of the Sawback trail is somewhat boring, mostly flat tree walking, the views open up occasionally to show the jagged mountains on both sides. The Mount Cockscomb campground is about half way to Mystic Valley, right on the side of the trail in the shadows of Brewster Mountain.
This day of the Sawback trail allows for easy and fast moving kilometres. Before you know it you are at the Mystic Junction, straight on goes to the Mystic Junction campground and then continues on to Sawback Lake and a tangle of other backcountry trails. Keep left at the junction and follow signs for Mystic Lake, this is where the main elevation gain of the day comes in, as the trail heads upwards, switchbacking through the forest.
After a short traverse, the trail descends towards the sound of running water, the cook area is what you’ll encounter first at the Mystic Valley campground, cross the river and a short walk up the trail the tent pads are just on the left of the trail.
The Mystic Valley campground only has five tent pads and a drop toilet, along with food lockers, a fire pit and picnic bench. There is also easy access to ice cold water in the river which follows between the cook area and sleeping area. Make sure you have a water filter or other purification system.
Day Two: Mystic Valley to Luellen Lake
Day two is probably the longest and for me, at least, the hardest day, on the Sawback trail. Start by climbing up the trail past campground, a few minutes later there is a junction, right takes you to Mystic Pass, straight on will take you to Mystic Lake, a worthwhile detour, this beautiful lake is untouched and peaceful.
Backtracking to the junction, follow the trail towards Mystic Pass, almost instantly the trail begins to climb, following a creek to begin with, fill up with water here! This is a long and steady climb through the trees. Once you break out of treeline, the views open up, the trail continues to slowly gain elevation as you hike through the alpine. The bugs here were not great so we didn’t linger.
The high part of the pass is marked with a cairn, a great spot to stop and enjoy the views both ways down the valley. There is no shelter from the sun in this section so a hat and sunscreen is essential. I also like to wear an UPF long sleeve shirt for extra protection.
Descending slowly, at first, the views keep on getting better looking down the valley ahead. Eventually the gradient steepens and the trail is a little loose, poles here were excellent to prevent me from slipping and falling. The mountains on either side of the trail are beautiful here, with crazy rock patterns and caves. Then you enter the trees again, finally a shady spot for a break!
The trail cuts hgh above the valley floor for a ways before dipping down to the river, a perfect spot to take your boots off and soak your hot feet before continuing and fill up your water bottles.
From here the trail continues through the forest before reaching a junction. This is where the trail up from Johnston Canyon and Moose Meadows joins the Sawback trail. It sits at the confluence of two rivers and Larrys Camp campground is 0.2 kilometres away as well.
We followed the clearly signposted trail towards Luellen Lake, just shy of 9 kilometres. I’m not going to lie, the whole of this stretch of the trail was in the trees. It was mentally tough going, with no views and the odd fallen tree to climb over. Eventually we found the junction for the lake. Headed straight down, just before the river is Johnston Creek campground, across the river and a further one kilometre uphill you get to Luellen Lake.
Luellen Lake campground is extremely popular, situated right on the shores of a beautiful blue green alpine lake, surrounded by mountains. It has five tent pads, most offering little privacy but lake views, a toilet, which when we visited was sat on a weird angle but seemed perfectly solid on said angle. There is a picnic bench, a fire pit and food lockers. The water source is the lake or the outflow of the lake. If you wish to fish at Luellen Lake, check out the regulations before doing so and make sure you have a permit.
Day Three: Luellen Lake to Wildflower Creek
Arguably the most scenic day on the Sawback trail, after heading back across the river to the junction with the main trail, you continue along, through the woods for a short distance before it opens up into a meadow. Lots of noise making happened since there was fresh bear poo on the trail here.
This section of the trail seemed fairly overgrown too with bushes brushing our legs for the majority of the day. After five kilometers the Badger Junction campground can be seen, we figured we would stop here for a break….the bugs promptly had us throwing on our packs and running for the trail. Pulsatilla Pass can be seen at the end of the valley, the high point of the day.
The great thing about this pass is that it gains elevation and levels out numerous times, splitting up the elevation. It is only the final push which is a real grind, up beside the creek, you crest over the top just to realize it was a false summit and the grind continues. The bugs here were probably the worst of the whole trip but there are some excellent tips and tricks on surviving them.
Even in August there was still snow here on the trail, nothing to bad and many had gone around rather than over it but it was supportive and easy to cross. The top of Pulsatilla Pass is worth the climb though, looking back down the valley you just came from and then down the other side towards a beautiful lake. A great place to stop, as long as their is a breeze the bugs will leave you alone for the most part.
The decent off the pass is short and steep before it traverses along beside the lake and then rolls over the edge and descends steeply for some time. This was an absolute leg burner and the main reason I wouldn’t hike the Sawback trail from Lake Louise, as coming up this would have been soul destroying.
You are soon in the trees though, although still losing elevation, for some time. Eventually the trail levels out, there are signs of serious washouts in places, look for flagging tape in the trees and cairns to keep you on the right trail.
The trail here continues through the trees for some time, before once again losing more elevation, it is here you’ll finally make it to Wildflower Creek campground. A gem on the shore of the creek.
The Wildflower Creek campground, again, has five tent pads, a bench, fire pit and outhouse. Water can be gotten from one of two creeks running eighth side of the campground. Note that there are no bear lockers and food has to be hung at this campground. When we were there the bear hangs were in excellent condition though.
Day Four: Wildflower Creek to Lake Louise
The last day of the Sawback trail brings you out into the Skoki area, a popular backpacking destination. You’ll leave the solitude of the Sawback trail behind and be faced with many other people on the trail from Baker Lake.
From Wildflower Creek, cross the river using the bridge and start the climb! The trail heads through the forest for a ways, climbing and levelling, climbing and levelling. Eventually it pops out into a meadow. Look for blue hiking signs in the trees to keep you on the right trail. There are lots of braided streams running through the trail which will take some navigating and jumping across, again, poles came in really handy for the jumping.
Looking around, you’ll realise the only way out of the meadow is going to be up and that is very much the case. At the end of the meadow, the trail starts to gain elevation rapidly, switching back through the trees and at times, very steeply! This is a big climb, slow and steady and you’ll get there. As the trees thin out, the trail gradient gets less and the views ahead start to open up.
Shortly after breaking the tree line you’ll cross a stream, a great spot for a break and to get some cold water after the energy you’ve exerted climbing up from the meadow. Climb up from the stream and the valley opens up and you can see the trail, mostly flat, stretching way out in front of you.
Look for the signpost which sits at the trail junction, follow the left trail towards Baker Lake, a short climb will bring you to the campground here. We headed down to the lake for another snack and to soak our feet on the hot day. The water was at a perfect temperature, if we had been camping here, I could have easily gone for a swim but we still had a lot of kilometres to cover.
The last stretch of the Sawback trail follows alongside the Baker Lake shoreline before climbing, this is the last big stretch of elevation gain on the whole trip. As you crest over the top, Ptarmigan lake comes into view and the trail can be seen skirting along the mountain beside it.
At the end of the lake, the great descent begins, steeply at first, heading down towards the tree line, you’ll soon pass the junction for the Hidden Lake campground, a great spot to spend a last night if you want to split up the long day.
Continuing on, you soon reach the backside of the Lake Louise Ski Resort, here you follow the summer service road, easy downhill kilometers back to your car and the end of the Sawback trail. It was really hot on this stretch with limited shade, we took our time.
Things You Might Need When Backpacking The Sawback Trail
You’ll want a solid pair of hiking boots to complete the Sawback trail, I love the La Sportiva Raptor 2 boots, they are lightweight and comfortable straight out of the box.
A solid tent which can withstand the elements is also important. We use the Marmot Tungsten 2 person tent, it is roomy and light weight enough to take backpacking, it also comes at a great price point.
Make sure to carry bear spray and know how to use it when backpacking the Sawback trail in Banff National Park.
