The Johnston Canyon hike to the Ink Pots is arguably the most popular hike in Banff National Park and for good reason! When it comes to reward vs effort, reward far outweighs the effort. Suitable for all ages and abilities, the Johnston Canyon hike is incredibly popular. With wide pathways, little elevation gain and just a short hike to the first waterfall.
It’s advisable to complete the Johnston Canyon hike early in the day or in the evening. During the middle of the day the hike is packed and even with the new overflow parking, don’t be surprised if you can’t find a spot and get turned around. Doing the Johnston Canyon hike in the shoulder season can be a fantastic option. We did it at the end of March and even on a Sunday, the first parking lot wasn’t yet full! We’ve also camped at the Johnston Canyon campground and this allows easy access to the trail at quieter times of the day during the summer.
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Lower Johnston Canyon Falls
Distance: 1.2km from trailhead
Elevation gain: 30m
From the trailhead, cross the bridge over the river and turn right onto the trail. Take your time and enjoy the views. The trail is shady and you are surrounded by lush greenery, a beautiful spot to spend a hot day! The trail slowly gains elevation as it winds through the forest along the canyon edge. Look out for interpretive signs to find out more about the local plants, animals and how the canyon was formed.
Before you know it, there is a junction, keep right and head downwards to get to the lower Johnston Canyon Falls. From the bridge you get a gorgeous view of the falls, keep going and coral through the hole in the rock and you come out in a tiny area where you are up close with the waterfall and likely getting wet!
Expect to line up to get in here on a busy day as there is only room for maximum six people at the viewing area. In winter it is also incredibly icy through here due to the water spray from the falls freezing. I can’t recommend having a pair of ice cleats for this hike more! It’ll make it much more enjoyable that trying not to slip over as you walk along.
Upper Johnston Canyon Falls
Distance: 2.5km from trailhead
Elevation Gain: 120m
To continue on the Johnston Canyon hike, head back up to the junction and turn right to continue along the trail. A neat couple of switchbacks will help you gain elevation as the trail ends up above the lower falls.
This section is one of my favourite parts of the Johnston Canyon hike. The creek looks incredible and the canyon walls start to tower above you on each side. The first of the major elevated catwalks come here as you walk above the water along the rock wall.
Keep your eyes open for other smaller waterfalls, easily missed as there aren’t any major viewpoints for them, but they are beautiful and worth looking out for!
Through the forest again, slowly gaining elevation, please stick to the trail. Many go off in search of getting closer to some of the smaller waterfalls or looking for the ‘hidden cave.’ Pay attention to closures, there are protected birds nesting off of the trail and Parks Canada regularly closes areas off the trail for this reason.
When we got to the bottom catwalk heading out to the Upper Falls viewpoint, it was closed. Apparently the catwalk isn’t structurally safe currently and has been closed for some time. Instead, keep heading up a steep section of the trail to reach the beautiful upper viewpoint.
Looking down over the towering falls, there is plenty of space up here, with benches and viewpoints, showing off the Upper Johnston Canyon falls in all their glory. This is the terminus for many people, who turn around and head back to the car from here.
The Ink Pots
Distance: 5.7km
Elevation gain: 600m
After the upper falls, the Johnston Canyon hike seems to get considerably quieter, from here the trail gains elevation more rapidly as it heads through the forest. There isn’t much for views from the upper falls to the ink pots. Due to the steady climb, I found hiking poles really helpful for this section, as well as for stability of the icier sections of the trail.
Approximately 200m after leaving the upper falls viewpoint you come to a junction, head right to continue to the ink pots. Left is an alternative route from Moose Meadows, which joins up with the ink pots trail. The whole of the Johnston Canyon hike is really clearly signed, so it is easy to follow and would be hard to get lost!
Occasionally the trees open up and you get a view of the mountains opposite and the sheer drop into the canyon below. This section of the Johnston Canyon hike is rated as moderate as it does gain almost 200m of elevation.
Once you reach a point where the trees have been cleared and there is a small fence, preventing people from heading out to the edge, the trail starts the descent to the ink pots. The trails winds mostly down, at times steeply, before coming out into the valley.
The views back here are some of the best of all along the Johnston Canyon hike, the wide valley is surrounded by huge mountains in every direction you look, with the creek running through the middle. This meadow area makes an awesome spot for a sit down and a snack.
Follow the trail through the meadow until you reach the Ink pots sign. Please stay on the trail here, the trails are well maintained around the ink pots, crossing well maintained bridges and allowing people easy access to these incredible pools.
Even in winter many of these pools don’t freeze over! They are natural springs and you can see the water pushing up from the pool bottom. They are named ink pots for the colours they shine on a sunny day. On an overcast day the colour can still be seen but not to the same extent as on a sunny one.
The trail continues on to some of the most pristine and beautiful backcountry in Banff National Park and is a starting point for many trips, eventually taking you to Banff or through to the Skoki Loop near Lake Louise.
How To Get To Johnston Canyon
Approximately a 25km drive from Banff, head west along Highway 1 from Banff and take the first exit for Highway 1A, The Bow Valley Parkway. Once on this road, follow it until you get to the roundabout and parking for Johnston Canyon is signposted from here.
Please obey speed limits on the Bow Valley Parkway, there is a lot of wildlife in the area and bears are often seen alongside the road. Be respectful and keep moving without disturbing them. There isn’t wildlife fencing along the Bow Valley Parkway like there is along Highway 1 through the park so wildlife can often be found on the road.
Note that the Bow Valley Parkway will be closed between the Fireside day use area and just east of Johnston Canyon in Spring and again in Fall. Meaning to access the Trailhead from Banff, you’ll have to stay on Highway 1 until the Castle Junction/Radium exit.
If you want to avoid any parking issues there is also a bus service operated by Roam Transit from Banff to Johnston Canyon via Castle Junction.
Amenities
There are heated washrooms at the trailhead year round. In summer there are more amenities including a small store, a bistro and a coffee shed. For those looking for a unique experience, it is possible to stay at the Johnston Canyon Bungalows. Parks Canada also has a campground on the other side of the road which operates during the peak summer months.
Items You May Need To Complete The Johnston Canyon Hike
If you are hiking the the Johnston Canyon trail to the Ink Pots during the winter, make sure to wear solid hiking boots which are waterproof, this will save getting wet feet if it has freshly snowed. I love my La Sportiva Raptor 2 boots, pair them with a good pair of gators if there has recently been a lot of snow. This was your feet will be warm and dry for the whole hike.
If you intend on hiking the trail during the summer months I’d still recommend a lightweight pair of hiking boots, especially if you are going all the way to the Ink Pots, however if you’d prefer, a pair of trail runners would also suffice. I love my On Running Cloud Venture trail runners.
For anyone heading the Ink Pots, especially during the winter months, I’d recommend hiking poles, there are some steeper sections which can get slippery and I sure relied on my poles to stop me slipping over at times.
You’ll absolutely need ice cleats of some kind in order to complete the Johnston Canyon hike in winter. Due to its popularity the trail is often packed down and slippery. I used my Yaktrax and these were great for the hike.