Backpack The Incredible Skyline Trail In Jasper
Last updated on August 4th, 2020 at 11:17 pm
The Skyline Trail is a pretty sought after reservation come the summer months, regarded as one of the most scenic backpacking trips in Jasper National Park as almost 25km of the 44km trail is above tree line, giving hikers incredible views on a good weather day. Booking for backcountry sites in Jasper opens in February and at 8am on the day booking opened I was online to book it. You can definitely get cancellations, especially during bad weather but you may not be able to hike it the direction you wish or stop where you want.
With 500m of elevation difference between trail heads, there is definitely an easier and a harder direction to hike the Skyline trail. We had opted to complete the 44km hike over three days, starting at Maligne Lake (the higher of the two trailheads and finishing at Signal Mountain. As there was a group of us we left a car at each trail head, if this isn’t an option you can catch a shuttle run by Maligne Adventures, book here.
Distance and Elevation Profile
Distance: 44.1km
Elevation change from Maligne Lake: 1410m gain, 1928m loss.
Do not underestimate this trip, there is a large amount of elevation gain to reach the ridge, followed by a lot of elevation loss! Bring poles!
Day One: Maligne Lake to Snowbowl Campsite
Parking at the furthest lot along the Maligne Lake road, the trail head for the skyline trail is clearly marked and starts heading through the trees. You can make some easy kilometers as the trail remains fairly flat for a while. We didn’t really stop to take much in as it was pouring with rain when we headed out. The trail winds through the forest passing turn offs to Lorraine and Mona Lakes, Mona Lake being the biggest of the two.
At the 5km mark you reach Evelyn Creek campsite and from here the climb really begins! A series of long switchbacks takes you to almost treeline and the famed skyline trail views start to open up down the valley. At the end of switchbacks you pop out at the Little Shovel Campground at approximately 8km. The climb continues first through the trees and then through a meadow after the campsite to Little Shovel Pass.
The path then starts to descend into the valley and you can see it stretch out in front of your eyes. After a number of small creek crossings and one large crossing the Snowbowl Campsite sits right next to the main skyline trail and provides a perfect spot to rest up before the next day.
Day Two: Snowbowl to Tekarra Campsite
Snowbowl to Tekarra campsite is around 18km including reaching the highest point of the trail, The Notch. Once back on the skyline trail it continues to cut through a huge valley meadow, slowly gaining elevation as you move out of the green valley and into the rocky alpine to reach Big Shovel Pass. Once at the pass it’s an easy and fairly flat traverse towards the Curator Campsite.
Curator campground is located 20km from the trail head, just below the main trail. From this junction follow the signs for The Notch, the most notorious part of the skyline trail. Walk past the lake and start the steep climb. The closer to the top, the looser the rocks seem to get below your feet, poles here were a lifesaver to keep me on my feet at moments here.
Once at the top there are incredible views back down the valley as well as views looking out over Jasper and the Icefields Parkway. The trail onwards from here is clear and follows along the ridge before starting to descend slowly into a rock garden. The whole way along the views are stunning!
As the descent starts you work your way through rocky outcrops of glowing colors before starting down a series of switchbacks, from here you can see down the valley to the forest which hides the Tekarra Campground. At the base of the switchbacks the trail cuts through grassy meadows full of marmots! Shortly after entering the forest you’ll find Tekarra Campground. The tent pads and toilets are on one side of the trail and the kitchen area and food storage are on the other side of the trail by the river.
Day Three: Tekarra Campsite to Signal Trailhead
From the Tekarra Campground the trail is fairly unobvious in order to carry on with the Skyline Trail. From the kitchen area you have to cross the river, don’t worry, there are usually lots of big rocks so you can pick your way across without getting wet feet! On the other side of the river follow the trail as it ascends up, eventually it levels out and skirts around the mountain.
Once again you are treated to gorgeous views as you cross the grassy mountainside. As the descent starts the tree line quickly approaches and before you know it you are on a wide old fire road which will take you down to the main parking lot and the end of the skyline trail, in 9km time. For some this may seem like a disappointing end to a spectacular trail but it’s shady and allows for some easy and fast kilometres to get your weary feet back to the car as fast as possible!
Conclusion
I loved the skyline trail and would absolutely do it again, hopefully in drier and clearer weather! I do think that perhaps by having the most scenic day as the longest hiking day meant we missed out on having time to enjoy the best views on the trail. If I were to do this again I would either take an extra day or hike all the way to Curator on the first day. A big day with substantial elevation but making the trip to Tekarra campsite a much shorter day in order to spend some time enjoying the ridge and taking in the views.
Things To Consider When Planning a Skyline Trip
- Snow can linger late into July on The Notch, consider this when choosing your dates to complete the trip. We completed this is mid July and there was still snow at the top of The Notch and the trail up there was really wet, super loose and barely visible since the snow hadn’t melted from the trail much before we completed it.
- The weather changed rapidly, especially above the tree line, there is little shelter. Pack clothing for all weather and don’t forget the sunscreen either!
- Have an escape plan in case the weather turns really bad or there is snow making the trail impassable. There are two escape routes, one which takes you out on to Maligne Lake Road, the other takes you out to Icefields Parkway. Neither get you back to one of the original trail heads however.
- Be prepared for some of the most outdoor bathroom facilities you’ll find. As with a lot of the backcountry campgrounds in Jasper, the ones on the Skyline Tail are no different. At the campgrounds the washrooms are in a row of three with no shelter and little privacy. People are fairly polite and I havent had someone sit down next to me….not yet at least!
There is a lodge on the Skyline Trail, at approximately the 20km mark from Maligne Lake, just below the Curator Campsite. It offers private lodge accommodation and is fully catered. They also offer meal packages for people staying at the Curator Campground. To find out more information, head to their website here.
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