After 10 years of living in Banff, we decided to try out the Sulphur Mountain Westside hike one day in mid May. This hike is often overlooked as people opt to hike the frontside trail which switches back under the gondola. The main reason why people chose to hike the frontside Sulphur Mountain hike is that the parking is at higher elevation, so there are less leg burning kilometers to climb compared to the Westside trail which starts at the Bow River.
For a few years the Sulphur Mountain Westside hike was closed to the public as contractors and Parks Canada staff worked on creating a fire break in the area, with this work now looking like it is complete, the trail offers some pretty scenic views with few obstructions. We also found that there was a lack of shade for a large amount of the hike though, so don’t forget your sunscreen because it was toasty out on the trail.
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Quick Stats For Hiking The Sulphur Mountain Westside Trail
Distance: 8km one way from the Cave and Basin (plus 0.5km for the boardwalk at the top)
Elevation: 880m gain
Time: Approximately 2 – 3 hours up.
When to hike: The best time to do the Sulphur Mountain Westside hike is in summer, we completed it in mid May and it was almost completely snow free.
Do you need to pay to park: The parking lot at the Cave and Basin is free, however you will need a Parks Canada entry pass either for the day or year. (NOTE if you have an annual Discovery Pass, you can explore the Cave and Basin National Historic Site for free!)

Completing The Sulphur Mountain Westside Hike
The Sulphur Mountain Westside hike is not often spoken about and for good reason, it is longer and gains more elevation that the main Sulphur Mountain hike which runs under the path of the gondola. That being said, having now done them both, I really enjoyed the peaceful westside trail. We saw one other couple once we left the Sundance Canyon trail, which in Banff is rare!
Starting from the Cave and Basin National Historic Site, the beginning of the Sulphur Mountain Westside hike starts easy, walk past the Cave and Basin and follow signs for Sundance Canyon, the beginning is wide and paved and mostly flat as it winds through the forest beside the Bow River, offering up some beautiful views. This is a multi use trail to watch out for bikes and people on horseback.

Shortly after the trail turns away from the river, there is a crossroads. The Sulphur Mountain Westside hike is the left trail. Straight on takes you to Sundance Canyon, an awesome hike in banff. There is a trail sign, so you can’t go wrong. We followed the steep gravel trail up and it was the beginning of unrelenting uphill.

The gravel trail stops at the end of the first short steep section, take the right hand trail from here which heads into the cut block. Almost immediately the views looking down Highway 1 towards Lake Louise start to open up. With the absence of trees the views are pretty much non stop.

As the Sulphur Mountain Westside hike gains elevation through the cut block, views open up lookout towards Mount Norquay as well. The trail maintains its steady uphill grade but it is wide and easy to follow with few obstacles to contend with.

After a few switchbacks, the trail just traverses along under the mountain ridge heading up slowly and consistently and offering up some beautiful views. We also saw a number of marmots as we got higher up. There were some pockets and shade and large rocks to sit on for breaks.

Eventually you start to see the ridgeline above and the Sulphur Mountain Westside hike has one steep switchback before it continues on a short way and reaches the final switchback. Stop, enjoy the peace and the views. The end of the trail is near and it spits you out in the middle of the boardwalk at the top of Sulphur Mountain.

Head up to Samson Peak and enjoy the incredible views and interpretative signs. We then headed back along the boardwalk to the top of the Gondola where there is a restaurant, gift shop and interpretative displays.

On the far side of the Gondola terminal it is possible to continue on to the true summit of Sulphur Mountain, however in mid May it was still snowbound, so we gave it a miss.
To head back to town, you have three options. Return down the Sulphur Mountain Westside hike, returning the way you came. Descend via the main Sulphur Mountain route to the switchbacks to the Hot Springs. We opted for choice three and took the gondola down to the base, where we picked up the Roam Transit bus for $2 each which took us back into downtown Banff.

Where Is The Trailhead
The trailhead for the Sulphur Mountain Westside hike is at the Cave and Basin National Historic Site, which is approximately 2 kilometres from downtown Banff. There is a large parking lot but it is also very much walkable from the town through the parks or along the road.
If you are driving, once in Banff, take Banff Avenue to the river and cross the bridge. Turn right and follow Cave Avenue all the way to the end which is the parking lot for the Cave and Basin. Walk past the buildings, the trail starts at the far side of the site.

What We Took On The Sulphur Mountain Westside Hike
Hiking Boots – The steep trail meant we felt confident in our choice of hiking boots, although it could also be done in trail runners if that is your reference.
Day Pack – A solid backpack was a must, we encountered all the seasons and being able to carry layers and snacks was a must for us.
Sun Shirt – There is little in the way of shade, I wore a sun shirt to protect from UV, it also dried out really fast after we got caught in a hail storm.
Bear Spray – The Sulphur Mountain Westside hike is in bear country, carry bear spray and know how to use it.

Where To Stay In Banff
Mount Royal Hotel – Located right on Banff Ave in the middle of downtown Banff, hotel locations don’t get much better than this.
The Canoe Hotel and Suites – One of the newest hotels in Banff, this gorgeous spot offers mountain views from the rooftop hot tub.
Two Jack Lakeside Campground – If you are more into camping, check out this stunning lakeside campground just outside of Banff. The Roam public transit stops right outside, so you can leave your car behind.