Last updated on February 27th, 2024 at 12:40 am
Two phrases come to mind when people think of backpacking Tonquin Valley in Jasper National park, the first is how atrocious the bugs are and the second is how wet the trail is. This was my second time backpacking Tonquin Valley and I have to say the second time was wildly more pleasant when it came to weather and trail conditions than the first but the bugs were insanely bad on my second trip and barely noticeable on my first, so it seems Tonquin Valley never lets you fully escape either of its downfalls.
I’ve painted a negative picture right from the start of backpacking Tonquin Valley but there is a reason I went back for a second time. The core area of Tonquin Valley is stunning! There is a wild and remote feeling when backpacking Tonquin Valley that I have experienced on few other trails while backpacking in the Canadian Rockies.
That isn’t to say that backpacking Tonquin Valley isn’t popular or that it isn’t hard to get a spot along the trail, it most certainly is. But due to the small campsites along the trail, all 4 to 8 tent pads in size, it means that the trail isn’t overrun with people. Add onto that, the fact that backpacking Tonquin valley can be done as an out and back from one of the two trailheads or as a thru hike going point to point, you encounter very few people while hiking on the main trail.
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How to Backpack The Tonquin Valley Trail
There are seven campgrounds to chose from when backpacking Tonquin Valley, with the most popular campground being the Amethyst Campground almost smack bang in the middle of the thru hike. This is where we stayed.
On my first trip backpacking Tonquin Valley, we booked two nights at Amethyst Campground but it just didn’t feel like it was long enough plus it rained the whole full day we had there which somewhat diminished the experience but led to some great stories! So on our second time backpacking Tonquin Valley we booked three nights at Amethyst which felt like a much better amount of time.
If you are planning on doing the thru hike the best way is to start at the Astoria trailhead near Edith Cavell and end at the Portal trailhead which is on the Marmot Basin access road. By backpacking Tonquin Valley this way your overall elevation gain is considerably less than if you do it the opposite way. As well as this there is cell reception at the Portal trailhead, so for anyone who wants to do the thru hike but doesn’t have two cars, it is easy to call a cab to take you back to the Astoria trailhead. There is no cell reception at the Astoria trailhead.
For anyone wanting to do an out and back trip backpacking Tonquin Valley there are pros and cons of both routes. Starting at the Astoria trailhead there is less elevation to gain and it comes mostly in the form of some killer switchbacks which are over in thirty minutes. The views backpacking Tonquin Valley from the Astoria trailhead are beautiful, filled with trees and alongside the river.
The trail is wide and easy to follow. Once at the top of the switchbacks the world opens up and you are greeted with your first views of the Ramparts and shortly after Amethyst Lake.
Backpacking Tonquin Valley from the Portal Trailhead, going in is almost all uphill to Maccarib Pass, think 700 meters of elevation over around 10km. It is also approximately 3km longer to Amethyst Lake campground than coming in from the other side. The trail is at times rough, following a washed out trail which involves some rock hopping for a short distance.
However the views from Maccarib Pass and the higher parts of the trail which traverse the valley above treeline are insane and well worth seeing! The big downfall is between the pass and Amethyst Campground, the first time we were backpacking Tonquin Valley, this was a mess, muddy and wet like I’ve never encountered before. Gaiters were a must as were solid, waterproof boots. Luckily on our second time after an unusual early heatwave the trail was mostly dry!
Overall I would recommend doing the thru hike when backpacking Tonquin Valley, each section of the trail is unique and has something to offer in terms of beauty and views.
For those not inclined to trek the 20km straight to Amethyst campground, a lot of people when backpacking Tonquin Valley, choose to start at the Astoria trailhead and spend their first night at the Switchback campground, 13.8km in or the Clitheroe campground at 17.2km in. From there the second night could be spent at Amethyst campground at 20.4km or Maccarib at 23.8km along the trail. On the way out to the Portal trailhead many then choose to split the 23km trek out and stop at the Portal campground, a nice spot right beside the river and 14.2km from Amethyst campground. Then on the last day it is a short hop back to the trailhead.
A suggested itinerary for backpacking Tonquin Valley could look something like this:
Day 1: Astoria trailhead to Clitheroe Campground, 17.2km
Day 2: Clitheroe Campground to Amethyst Campground, 3.2km
Day 3: Amethyst Campground to Portal Campground, 14.2km
Day 4: Portal Campground to Portal trailhead, 10.2km
The Campgrounds
‘The campgrounds while backpacking Tonquin Valley are fairly standard. They are small, usually with either eight or four tent pads. The tent pads themselves are small humps with no wood edges but are mostly clearly defined and have numbered posts so you can’t miss them! I assume the tent pads are humped for drainage as when we arrived in a downpour, many pads were rocking a moat around them which had disappeared by morning.
There are food lockers, one for each tent pad and mostly numbered to coincide with the tent pad number you are staying at. The cooking area at Amethyst is clearly signposted and plays host to three benches, so it can get a little crowded at peak times not that we ever had any issues.
All the toilets I used while backpacking Tonquin Valley, were outside, mostly three seats side by side up a couple of steps, the view is great, the shelter from the weather not so much and again, plagued by bugs so don’t forget to spay those otherwise protected areas when you go to sit down!
As I mentioned earlier, tent pads can be very hard to book if you want to backpack Tonquin Valley, my best advice is book on opening day if you can. Or look out for cancellations if you are flexible on dates. You must book through the Parks Canada reservation service, either online or over the phone. Reservations for Jasper National Park backcountry campgrounds opened on February 2nd 2024 at 8am MST, if you missed out on your desired dates or campsites along the trail, set up an alert for a=cancellations in Schnerp.
If you venture the other way out of Amethyst campground and head to the Tonquin Valley Adventures lodge, there is an unmarked trail which runs parallel to the lake but higher up. Its a trail not for the faint hearted as it is wet and boggy in places. The trail offers beautiful views though and saves gaining the elevation taking the main trail up to come back down via the Clitheroe campground.
Things To Do In The Core Tonquin Valley Area
For anyone who has been lucky enough to visit Tonquin Valley, you know it is stunning! For anyone with time, the option to spend a few days experiencing what Tonquin Valley has to offer is one not to be missed!
One of the day trips or half day trips which can be taken is to Moat Lake, based on the trail or in some parts, lack of a trail, its fairly obvious this isn’t a super frequented spot, so if you want to escape everyone else this is a great option. It is approximately a 5 or 6km hike from Amethyst campground.
Head towards the Tonquin Valley Backcountry Lodge and you’ll see a sign a few meters before the lodge for Moat Lake. From here the trail is fairly braided, look for the most used path and the excessive amount of flagging tape and you can’t go wrong. Shortly after you’ll see the lake off in the distance. Once you descend and enter the meadow area the trail appears and disappears but is fairly easy to pick up and there are small cairns dotted around to help.
The lake is peaceful and offers beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and as I mentioned you’ll likely have the place to yourself. The rocks around the edge of the lake make for a great spot to sit and have some lunch and enjoy the peacefulness.
Eventually the trail joins up with the one which heads to the Surprise Point campground, you cross over the outflow of Amethyst Lake and shortly after arrive at the campground. From here there is a signposted trail which heads down and I mean way down to the meadow below. From here you can head to Chrome Lake, or cross the meadow and head up to the ACC Hut and Outpost Lake. For those who like an early start there is also the option to head into the Eremite Valley, however this would be a huge day trip from Amethyst Lake.
Top Tips For Backpacking Tonquin Valley
- Bring a bug net! Never thought I’d use one of these but I really did need it, it made for a much more enjoyable experience. We also took mosquito coils and these were a life saver when we trying to eat!
- Talking of bugs, I found a fishing shirt and hiking pants to be a great combination to prevent mosquitos biting me.
- Bring plenty of food, regardless of how you hike this trail, you’ll be having big days, every day and you’ll need the fuel.
- There is a huge sandbar in Amethyst Lake right at the end of the trail to the lake from the campground, this makes it a really nice and not crazy cold spot for a dip to refresh yourself!
- If the weather permits, try and catch the sunset from the boardwalk beside Amethyst campground, it really was one of the best sunset spots I’ve seen.
- Don’t walk to the lake for water, there is a creek if you follow the left hand path looking at the cook area from the trail. Cross the non moving water and you’ll find a great spot to pump!
- Speaking of the walk to the lake….it was boggy! Its more of a boot wearing walk than a flip flop wearing walk unless your flip flops secure to your feet, I had to rescue the boyfriends flip flop and it was stuck hard!
- Make sure to wear waterproof boots or fast drying lightweight hiking shoes and gaiters. The trail is notorious for being wet and very muddy! These will come in handy for helping you manage to continue to enjoy the hike.
