I hadn’t intended to hike the Brazeau Loop but with the large snowpack over winter one year, resulting in late summer flooding some of my other plans were cancelled and I managed to snag a last minute booking to do the Brazeau Loop. What an incredible and, in my opinion, wildly underrated trip!
Unlike other backcountry trips in Jasper National Park the Brazeau Loop doesn’t seem to get a large amount of credit and instead appears to be largely living in the shadows of its more famous counterparts such as the Skyline Trail. I think this is mainly due to the much larger total hiking distance and also the large days you have to hike since there are few campgrounds on the Brazeau Loop trail.
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I however wouldn’t hesitate to book and do this trail again, it really is stunning! I managed to get a booking for two tent pads to do the whole loop 10 days before I wanted to start, which also makes it seem that it is considerably easier to find space on than the other trails in Jasper such as the Skyline and Tonquin. Booking for the Brazeau Loop typically opens in late January and you can book it online here.
Jasper National Park seems to have mastered the need for space in the backcountry. A large number of even their most popular backcountry sites are host to only eight tent pads, sometimes even less and this is no different on the Brazeau Loop where each site is home to either eight or four tent pads.
None of the campsites on the Brazeau Loop were full bar the Four Point Campsite during our trip and parties hiking both in and out of the loop use this site as an overnight stop, aside from this most campground had at least 3 empty spots and some of the smaller less popular sites didn’t appear to have anyone staying at them when we passed by, our last night was spent at Boulder Creek, where we shared the site with nobody else, an absolute luxury during a summer where camping popularity seems to have skyrocketed in and around the mountain parks.
How To Get To The Brazeau Loop
The Brazeau Loop trail head is along Highway 93N, heading from Lake Louise to Jasper, after approximately 114 kilometres and just after the big bend, the parking lot is signposted for Nigel Creek on the right side of the Highway. Parking can be limited, with day hikers and over night hikers heading into the area filling the parking lot daily.
The Brazeau Loop Trail:
Distance: 81km to do the full loop
Elevation: 1878m loss/gain
There are many ways you can backpack the Brazeau Loop, we decided to split each day into reasonable sizes and take our time, but you could do this trip over more or less days than we did it.
Our itinerary went:
Day 1: Nigel Creek Trailhead to Four Point Campground
Day 2: Four Point Campground to Brazeau Lake
Day 3: Brazeau Lake to Jonas Cutoff
Day 4: Jonas Cutoff to Boulder Creek
Day 5: Boulder Creek to Nigel Creek trailhead
Day One: Nigel Pass Trailhead to Four Point Campground
Distance: 13.8km
I often find that the first day on a multiday trip can often be lackluster, usually involving a lot of forest walking and not a lot of wow factor. The first day of the Brazeau Loop was not like that! The trail to Four Point campground starts off fairly mundane, following a service road for the best part of 2km. After this it’s a short descent through the forest to the creek. One of the bridges had been washed away which led to a spicy but stable log crossing for our group.
After this it’s back into the forest and a slow grind up, a small path shoots off to take in a waterfall, a nice spot to stop for a snack and to splash some water on your face on a hot day. Shortly after, the trees give way to a beautiful open valley with towering mountains on each side and a blue river streaking through the bottom. This is the first of many, many berry bush patches we encountered which not only make for excellent bear habitat but will also make any bare legs bleed after a few days.
After this the gradient steepens considerably and the path widens and becomes more rocky. As the elevation grows so do the views! Nigel Pass is a beautiful day out for a day trip as well, affording views back across the valley, in the distance you can catch glimpses of cars driving along the highway and Parker Ridge beyond that.
There is no official marker dictating the official spot of Nigel Pass, but as soon as you are up, you’ll find yourself traversing before losing a bit of elevation down to a river. Rock hopping is the game here, it is a wide crossing so pick your path carefully, nobody wants a wet boot on day one! On the far side of the river there are two choices, the right trail heads into the White Goat Wilderness area, the left trail heads towards Four Point Campground.
The rocky path cuts through the boulders at the base of a towering rock face as the pass progresses. Once on the other side the views into the next valley are beautiful and the descent rapid! Before you know it you are back in the next valley, once again a green mecca, with a waterfall and river flowing through the middle, follow this for some time before reaching a bridge. Across the river lies the Boulder Creek campground, not a popular choice as it adds on an extra 3km to either your outgoing or homecoming trip.
After Boulder Creek the trail undulates considerably as it heads through the forest before ending up in a massive berry meadow, look out for wildlife around the river here, we saw lots of signs of animals but no actual sightings….we must have been making too much noise! As you head back into the trees you’ll soon stumble across Four Point Campground just off the main trail and clearly signposted.
Four Point Campground has 8 tent pads, most located in a central area around the firepits and picnic benches. The site has an outside toilet and bear bins, water access is just across the main trail at the river. It is a busy site and one of the hardest to get a reservation at since it is a great stop for people heading out to do the Brazeau Loop as well as those on the way to their vehicle.
Day Two: Four Point Campground to Brazeau Lake
Distance: 18.5km
Shortly after leaving the campground the junction for the Brazeau Loop looms, it’s really well signposted, the left trail heads to Brazeau Lake and the right trail to Jonas Cutoff. Most people choose to hike the loop in a counter-clockwise direction as it saves a big day of elevation gain getting up to Jonas Shoulder.
The trail from Four Point Campground to Brazeau Lake is fairly flat, after passing the warden cabin it meanders through the forest, and you get glimpses of the Brazeau River as it runs alongside the trail for a good portion of the day. When the trees do open up, the views are beautiful. Keep an eye open for trail signs, at one point, approximately 5km from the Four Point Campground there is a bridge across the river, do not cross this! The trail was rerouted many many years ago, the remnants of a second bridge allowing you to cross back over the river further down the trail still exists but the river here is in no way passable!
At times the forest hike seems never ending and even though this isn’t a hard day on the trail technically, the mundane of hiking through the forest can make it seem like a much longer day than it is. Just when you think you can’t walk any further through the trees, a bridge appears across a creek and a few minutes further down the trail is the Brazeau River Campground, a small, four site campground in the trees.
Cross the bridge next to the campground entrance and head back up into the trees for another 2-3km. As the trail comes back down to the river, follow the clear sign posts for the Brazeau Lake Campground, the trail goes off to the right before you cross the bridge. Note that the bridge which crosses the lake outflow has been washed out for the last two summers and during periods of high water it may become uncrossable. There is no news about when the bridge will be replaced.
The Brazeau Lake Campground is a beautiful site located at one end of the lake where it flows out into the river and was probably my favourite campsite along the Brazeau Loop. There are eight tent pads scattered through the forest and the eating area and firepits all sit close to the lake with some beautiful views. There were no food hangers here, just hangs, so make sure you have a waterproof bag capable of hanging and holding all your food and scented items.
A short walk from the campground brings you to a tiny beach area where you can sit and enjoy the lake. If your legs have it in them still there is an old unmaintained and I would guess rarely used trail which works its way around the edge of the lake. A short bushwack will get you onto this trail and within a few minutes you are afforded much more open views of the Brazeau Lake, giving an idea of just how huge it really is.
Day Three: Brazeau Lake to Jonas Cutoff
Distance: 16.4km
Leaving the campsite, head back to the main trail to continue along the Brazeau Loop. Cross the bridge over the river, it is then a slow grind up through the trees, look out through the trees to the right for views looking over Brazeau Lake. The trail then dips back down into the valley for stunning views of the surrounding mountains and beautiful rivers.
From here the trail starts to wind up through the valley between two towering mountains, following the river which flows between them. The gradient is mostly gentle to the John John Campsite, a small four site campground 8 kilometers from Brazeau Lake. This is approximately halfway through the day to Jonas Cutoff and therefore we stopped here for a spot of lunch and to fill our water bottles. If you have the time a night at John John would be super rewarding for the peace, tranquility and beautiful views this site affords the people who stay here.
Shortly after the campground the trail takes a turn for the mega steep, the majority of the day’s elevation is gained in a short distance here but as the trail leaves the forest behind the views looking down over the valley are completely worth the struggle! At this point it feels like the hard work is done; however the trail continues to gain elevation, however this is at a much smaller gradient as it heads around the mountain side into Poboktan Pass.
The pass is wide and beautiful, filled with berry bushes and greenery, after the pass summit the trail starts to descend and eventually gives views into the valley on the other side. For me, these views were the highlight of the day and at a nice flat rocky spot we stopped and made a cup of tea, lounged in the sun and enjoyed the expansive views.
The elevation loss down into the valley is quick and at times knee achingly steep but before you know it you are down in the valley bottom. The trail spit us out at a river with few crossing options, we looked up and down and could see the well trodden trail on the far side, with few other options we took our shoes off, put our flip flops on and waded across the fast flowing river, at its deepest, for us at least, it was only mid way up my lower leg, on the other side we noticed a well worn trail leading further up stream, perhaps this was a better place to cross, but regardless we all made it.
Quick and easy walking along the flat trail which runs along the river soon brings you to a junction, cross back over the river to get to the Jonas Shoulder Trail and Jonas Cutoff Campground, or carry on the current trail to head out through to the Poboktan Trailhead. The signage here is clear and easy to follow and this continues on the other side of the river. Once across the bridge the right, lower trail leads to the campground, while the upper left trail is the start of the climb to Jonas Shoulder.
The Jonas Cutoff Campground is situated on the bank above a river, with eight tent pads, some of which sit right above the river, while a small few sit among the trees for some shelter. The cooking area sits above the river and water access is easy.
Day Four: Jonas Cutoff to Boulder Creek
Distance: 21.8km
In terms of elevation gain, this is the biggest day on the Brazeau Loop, at many points I found myself thinking ‘oh this must be Jonas Shoulder’ only to look up after the grind and see another path cutting into the mountain above my present location. I can tell you for a sure fact though, the elevation gain is one hundred percent worth it when you get to Jonas Shoulder and sit down to take in the massive views!
There is a sign in the Jonas Cutoff Campground which has been written in sharpie, leading the way to the main trail and avoid backtracking to get on it. Today is the day to have a big breakfast as the moment you hit the trail, it’s up! The trail heads up through the trees before coming out into a meadow.
Looking back it already feels like you’ve gained your elevation for the day, the river we ascended from looks tiny running through the valley below. The trail up here gets a little faint, cairns point the way across the meadow and up the ridge on the other side. Watch out here, the trail was particularly wet and a stream of water flowed down the main trail.
Once you reach what looked like a ridge and anticipated would be Jonas Shoulder, you are actually on a plateau, follow the trail across the flat, grassy meadow, the ridge to the right is the one which needs to be climbed. There appeared to be the start and end of a clear trail up to the top of the ridge, but when I completed the trail, due to the big snow levels from winter, almost all the trail up to Jonas Shoulder was covered in a large snow patch.
A cairn, high up showed us where the trail went and a trail had started to be worn in, going straight up the ridge in order to get to Jonas Shoulder. The trail here is on a soft scree, keep moving to avoid losing elevation by slipping back down! I am sure the main trail when snow free is somewhat easier and well worked in, making for an easier ascent.
Jonas Shoulder is for sure the highlight of the whole Brazeau Loop. Sat on the ridge you get views down in the valley you ascended from, as well as the one you are about to enter. The mountains around are huge, some holding glaciers. A river and lakes can be seen from the ridgetop, make sure to hit this point in good weather if possible and allow yourself some time to take in the stunning views.
The trail descends down and cuts along the ridge towards the pass below and the beautiful views continue. Cutting through the valley bottom, the mountains towering above, the trail gains a little elevation, but pretty slowly, before reaching the Jonas Pass marker. The trail from here is fairly flat, passing through grassy, marshy and bushy areas, following the creek for the most part. The mountains each side change from one to another slowly, as glaciers reveal themselves before disappearing into the background.
It seems to take a long time before reaching the tree line, we were hiking on a really hot sunny day, sunscreen, water and a hat are all vital. At tree line, the gradient of the trail steepens and the views, for the most part, disappear. An hour of more of hiking down through the trees brings you back out into bushy meadows and before you know it you are back at the junction.
We stopped at Four Point Campground for a snack and to cool our feet off in the river. This is where most people spend the night, before heading back to their cars the next day. The campground was full when I went to book the Brazeau Loop, plus I know I am capable of hiking a big over 20km day, so pushing on an extra 3km to make the hike to the car shorter was a no brainer.
Back along the undulating trail for 3km and we were back at Boulder Creek. This cute campground has four tent pads among the bushes and we were lucky enough to have it all to ourselves. We chose this night, our final night on the Brazeau Loop, to hunt for dead wood fall and make a nice fire while rehydrating our dinner.
Day Five: Boulder Creek to Nigel Creek Trail Head
Distance: 10.7km
We got an earlier than usual start on the day, had a quick breakfast and headed back out onto the trail. We knew what to expect having already covered the ground heading in to do the loop four days ago. It poured with rain the whole way up to the pass and therefore we barely met anyone day hiking on our way out. It was by far the worst weather we experienced during daylight hours on the Brazeau Loop.
The rain had made the trail pretty slick and very muddy, gators were a must for the day. Within 3-4 hours we were back at the car, an added bonus that the washed out bridge had been replaced, meaning no slippery tree crossing for our tired legs.
I finished the Brazeau Loop tired but with a huge smile on my face. I couldn’t believe it had taken me this long to do the Brazeau Loop, every day it showed how beautiful the area was, with stunning views and an insanely quiet trail meant a perfect backcountry experience. This is one I would absolutely do over and over again and I can’t wait for the next time!
Items You Might Need To Complete The Brazeau Loop
The Brazeau Loop backpacking trip is a long trail. Make sure you have solid hiking boots which are well wron in already! I love my La Sportiva Raptor 2 boots, since they are lightweight, comfortable and waterproof for when you end up hiking in the rain!
A tarp was essential when we backpacked the Brazeau Loop, we had a few nights of serious rain and storms and a tarp helped protect out tent and allowed up to pack it up dry to carry the next day.
Long days hiking on the trail meant I loved taking my boots off at the end of the day. I love my Chaco sandles for wearing around camp or if its cold my North Face booties. Both these options are so comfortable and perfect to wear around camp.
The hike up and over Jonas Shoulder was steep and I really relied on my hiking poles in order to help me get up the steep loose sections. having these helped my not slip over
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Thanks for the great review of this route. I am planning on doing this route at the begining of September.
Day 1 – TH to fourpoint
Day 2 – Fourpoint to Brazeau
Day 3 – Brazeau to Jonas Cutoff
Day 4 – Jonas Cutoff to Poboktan
Day 5 – Poboktan to Jonas cutoff
Day 6 – Jonas Cutoff to Boulder Creek
Day 7 – Boulder Creek to TH
I heard through Alltrails that one of the bridges crossing the brazeau river is washed out close to the camp. I’m hoping it’s either replaced or crossable when we go.
Your trip sounds amazing! I’d love to hear about your section to Poboktan as we didn’t make it that way. Unfortunately I saw that the bridge was washed out, I also read that someone contacted Parks regarding the rebuild timeline and they were told the water was still way too high to attempt a rebuild and it could be out all summer! Hopefully that isn’t the case and it’s rebuilt for your trip or the water level is low enough to allow you to cross the river on foot. If you are on Facebook the Backpacking In The Canadian Rockies group always has great trail condition information 🙂
Do you have a packing list to go with this hike… your pictures look amazing!