Last updated on August 8th, 2023 at 11:28 pm
Paddling Maligne Lake just outside of Jasper is one of my favorite experiences in the Rockies. I first did it 2019 in epic weather and repeated the trip in 2020; in not such perfect, sunny weather….but that’s the mountains for you! In order to complete this trip, it’s really beneficial to have some paddling experience, otherwise it could take a long time to get to each campsite! Don’t be tempted to rush though, the views are stunning and the earlier you get on the water the calmer and easier the paddle will be.
I just got back from a trip paddling Maligne Lake in 2023 and have to say very little has changed, the campgrounds are beautiful, the scenery gorgeous. This time we also spent a night at the newer Hidden Cove campground, a true treat with only four tent pads and a perfect spot for first time backcountry paddlers since it is only 4km from the boat launch!
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Campgrounds along Maligne Lake
There are three campgrounds along the lakeshore, the closest is Hidden Cove, a small family friendly site just a four kilometer paddle from the boat launch, then there is Fishermans Cove at the thirteen kilometer mark and Coronet Creet at approximately 21 kilometers and almost at the very back of the lake, each of these have eight tent pads.
Don’t expect a lot of privacy at some of these sites, some of the tent pads are very close to each other! Other than this the sites are beautiful, scenic and really well equipped. There are docks at each site as well as large kitchen areas with big benches and numbered food lockers big enough to hold coolers and bbqs and other luxuries you may have chosen to pack. The kitchen area also holds a few firepits and there is firewood at the boat launch for you to pack out with you, never cut down and trees!
How To Book A Paddle Camping Trip On Maligne Lake
Camping along Maligne Lake is very popular! Reservations can be made through the Parks Canada reservation site, note this is one on the hardest trips I’ve ever tried to book and many end up disappointed. Be prepared on reservation opening day and be online when they first open, all sites for the whole of summer are typically gone within the first few hours. If you are unlucky, there are often cancellations so keep checking the reservation site.
If you don’t get lucky booking Maligne Lake, check out the other paddling trip in Jasper National Park, to Athabasca Island. Note this is river paddling as opposed to lake paddling so does require a bit more experience, but is also an incredible paddle trip.
Canoe vs Kayak When Paddling Maligne Lake
I have always taken a canoe to Maligne Lake, that way we can pack as much as we want….within reason! It’s a nice change to be constantly worrying about what will fit in our backpacks and how much we can carry on our backs for repeated days! The ability to take a bottle of wine and good food are just too much to resist for me!
That isn’t to say I don’t look on with jealousy as people speed past us in their kayaks, the infinitely faster choice between your two modes of transport! If you can only grab a camp spot at Coronet Creek for a night, I would take a kayak, this will make the paddle in, much faster and more enjoyable!
There are many rental outfits in Japer where you can rent canoes and kayaks and some of these companies will even deliver the boat out to the boat launch for you. Pure Outdoors is one of these outfitters and you can make a boat reservation here.
Where to Start
Maligne Lake is approximately 45km from the town of Jasper in Alberta. If you are coming from Jasper you want to head out of town towards Edmonton, from the highway, Maligne Lake is clearly signposted at the traffic lights. Watch out for wildlife along the road, especially if you are heading out for an early start.
Once you get to Maligne Lake it is a busy place with a number of parking areas, go past the main tourist parking area for the tour boats and restaurants and follow signs for the boat launch and Skyline trail. The parking is at the end of the road on the right hand side, the boat launch is also there. The parking at Maligne Lake gets really busy during the day, another reason to get there early.
Our Trip Paddling Maligne Lake
Day One: Boat Launch to Fishermans Bay Campground
After getting our boat loaded up and into the water our canoe trip down Maligne Lake began. Due to the size of the lake and the cold temperature of the water we always try and stick close to shore wherever possible. We headed out along the right hand shore before the sun was even above the mountains….it was cold!
At approximately 4kms the first campground appears tucked into a cove. Shortly after this on the right hand shore is a day use area, a perfect place to pull off the water, stretch the legs, use the bathroom and enjoy a snack!
Kilometers on the lake fly by as your attention is focused on the shoreline looking for animals and the mountains popping straight out of the lake into the sky. The shore is mostly forested but keep your eyes peeled as we spotted numerous bird nests and an eagle perched on a tree watching us.
Fishermans Bay campground is on the left hand shore of the lake, as we paddled up the right shoreline, the lake gets wide and the shoreline takes on a more rocky look. An island covered in trees appears in the middle, just past the island provides a perfect spot to cross the lake and the distance between the shores is the smallest it has been in a long time.
Look out for tour boats as you cross! Once at the other shore follow it around into the cove and Fishermans Bay is there on the left hand side. A perfect spot with a few tent pads which provide amazing views of the lake and mountains.
Due to our early start to the day, we unpacked and set up camp, had a quick lunch and then relaxed and read and napped in our tent. We got up for dinner and then headed out on the short paddle to Spirit Island. A perfect spot to head to in the evening to watch the sunset once all the tourist boats have finished for the day. We had the entire place to ourselves and spent a few hours out there drinking red wine and eating snacks.
Day Two: Fishermans Bay to Coronet Creek Campground
We woke early to hit the lake while it was still quiet and get through ‘the narrows’ between the campground and Spirit Island before the tour boats started up. Again we kept to the right shore of the lake. Dipping into all the coves and enjoying the peaceful morning. Past Spirit Island the lake is so peaceful and we didn’t encounter anyone else the whole paddle down to Coronet Creek campground.
Approximately halfway to the campground, there is another day use area, the views from here are beautiful looking back down the lake to where we started the day. The day use area is equipped with a toilet, picnic bench and firepit. Again we got out to stretch our legs and have a snack before finishing the days paddling.
After the day use area you soon reach the end of the lake, the views open up through rocky river beds with glaciers propped high on the mountains behind. Take your time here, enjoy the beautiful views….read, I took a lot of photos!
Paddling along the shoreline, from a distance a wide open patch can be seen, don’t get excited, this isn’t the campground! Paddle past this and keep going, the campground will soon appear from nowhere just before the very end of the lake, tucked around the corner from the rest of the lake.
Day Three: Coronet Creek Campground
We chose to have a day of rest from paddling and finally have a little bit of a later start to the day! There isn’t a huge amount to do from the Coronet Creek Campground. I packed a book to enjoy some hours spent on the lake shore soaking in the sun and reading.
We also explored the far end of the lake by canoeing around to explore the areas we hadn’t stopped at before. There is also a firepit on the lakeshore near the campsite, a perfect spot to have an afternoon fire while taking in the beautiful views and enjoying some snacks.
On our first trip we decided to use this day to hike out along the one hiking trail from the campground out to the Coronet Glacier. A rather long hike at approximately 10km one way but the views at the end are beautiful and we spent some time exploring and climbing up the moraine to get closer to the glacier.
Day Four: Coronet Creek Campground to the Boat Launch
This was a big paddle! We got on the lake just before 7:30am and were back at the boat launch within five hours. The lake was like glass when we started out and after a very early morning rain shower, we were rewarded with beautiful blue skies for over half of the trip home. It was peaceful and unbelievably mesmerising to be out on the lake alone at this moment.
We took the left shore back, so we completed a full circuit of the lake. We quickly got back to Spirit Island where we stopped for some quick pictures since the sun was shining and the tour boats hadn’t started yet. There are two day use areas after Fishermans Bay to stop and stretch your legs at and the left side of the lake was busy with day use boat users heading out to Spirit Island.
Just as we could see the end of the lake the weather changed and we got a taste of what the lake may feel like if we had to paddle Maligne Lake in really bad weather. Between the wind whipping up waves and the wakes from the tour boats we had a pretty rough ride for 45 minutes, where we considered pulling over since steering was proving almost impossible.
Eventually we got through the turmoil and were back on smooth water as we headed into the main trail area of Maligne Lake, the shores begin to fill with people and so does the water, but before you know it the boat launch comes into sight and you are back on land, unpacking the canoe.
Things You May Need For Paddling Maligne Lake
I lived in my Chaco sandals on this trip, as I do on most of my paddling trips. Perfect to wear in the water as well as in the boat and around camp! I can’t recommend these enough for comfort.
Dry bags are a must for paddle camping, they help protect your gear from any water you may splash or bring into the boat and they’ll also protect your gear if it rains while you are on the water. If you don’t think you’ll use dry bags, large, strong garbage bags are a good alternative.
Lots of layers! It can get cold on the lake. When we were last paddling it was fairly warm during the day but at night it got pretty cold and therefore when we were starting out on the lake in the mornings it could be rather frigid. I was so thankful for my Arc’teryx Atom Lt jacket, which helped keep my toasty during our morning paddles as well as at camp overnight.
Parks Canada provides wood at the boat launch which you can take with you to camp and have a fire, if you want to do this, as long as there isn’t a fire ban at the time, don’t forget a small axe or hatchet. While we there is 2023, Hidden Cove and Fisherman’s Bay had an axe provided, however we couldn’t find one at Coronet Creek. Luckily we had packed our own axe!
Maligne Lake is bear country and even though you may spend some of your time on the water, you’ll still need to carry bear spray with you especially at camp or if you are going hiking.
